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Should there really be a Scav cooldown timer if you aren't even doing a "Run Through"??? That's a super easy fix which would make the life of anyone new, casual, or with a bad PC 100 times better. Plus more constructive thoughts and criticisms from a very passionate life long gamer.

Quick background, I've been a hardcore FPS player most of my life (I'm pretty old now for competitive gamers but...). I've also been a hardcore RTS player, MMO player, played a lot of DOTA 2, I even played some dang card games (Not Hearthstone)... basically I just love good games. But at the end of the day FPS was always my favorite, although I might be better statistically with RTS?
I'm brand new to Tarkov, this is my first legit wipe (I played a few hours during the last wipe but I was lagging so much I quit, literally every gun fight I was getting spikes and was just dead with a frame lock stutter... but then I realized I need to try to overclock my CPU from 4.0 to 4.3 GHZ and suddenly the game became "playable"). I think it's note worthy that Tarkov is one of only 2 games in my experience where I just feel my computer isn't good enough to play correctly (the other one is PlayerUnknown's Battlegrounds which I just didn't like that game too much honestly even compared to the old H1Z1).
ANYWAYS... I love this game. I've programmed games in Unity by myself, one of them was really complex but my artist quit and has now worked for big companies like ArenaNet... so when I heard that Tarkov was made in Unity, honestly I was impressed. Personally working solo or damned near it, I didn't think it was possible to make a game like this in Unity...
And in some ways I'm right... the game doesn't run very smoothly on my PC even with the lowest graphics settings. Youtube videos of Tarkov look WAYYYYYY better and smoother than my actual game... normally you lose quite a bit of quality with recording but I can tell my PC isn't handling the game correctly... You also need an SSD drive to play with friends which is reasonable but just another example why this game is difficult to excel in not just because of your skill and knowledge/intelligence of the game... but also the computer requirements are VERY steep.

I have a few points I want to make that I think could greatly improve the game:

1) Why is there a timer for playing Scav even if you play it like a normal raid and you don't receive the "Run Through" status?
I understand they made a timer so you can't just infinitely spawn Scavs and run to extract every time you get something good... but if you are playing legit??? If you are playing Scav as if it was your PMC (especially applies to newer players)? If you are going out of your way to make sure you don't have a run through???
I just think they may want to reconsider this design point for people that aren't abusing Scav, there is currently no way to play the game and financially progress without feeling like you aren't good enough if you aren't a god gamer (dozens of reasons players might think they are trash right now).
I've been progressing pretty well for my first wipe, just hit level 30 (haven't played a lot of days including missing around 7-10 days for start of wipe...). I have a bitcoin farm with 10/10 slots filled, I have millions of Roubles...
I can make money pretty steadily, I even have a friend who's REALLY good at the game, he got rid of literally 50 Graphics Cards about a week into the wipe because he was bored playing alone and was about to quit... then I'm like "hey lets play? I overclocked my CPU i think it's sorta playable now"... I do play a lot of solo though, but I have a very experienced friend who can help me with all my questions, specific tasks, and just teaching me the game quickly in general.
My point is that I think I'm doing pretty good for my first wipe but I still feel the game is too stressful at the moment. It's a little too much stress compared to fun, but it's close.

2) I was gonna log on today because I need to do the 8 kills near the Factory Office Area. I realized that this task unlocks SO MUCH STUFF... and I should of done it long ago.
I was about to log on but, I was planning all day on it but... then I was like... hmm I don't want to go through what happened in my last PMC factory quest. I was a brand new player and my PC doesn't run the game that well... killing a bunch of super kitted guys with a pistol like 10 days into wipe??? It's humiliating...
No joke my Survival Rate might be about +20% higher if it was not for that ONE Factory PMC quest. I'm not even exaggerating... I blew millions on total trash loadouts like PACA, derpy helm, and a Grach. I must of died at least 20 times just to complete that 1 quest (keep in mind I was a Global Elite in CSGO, and over 200 H1Z1 battle Royale wins which means I was the sole survivor of about 110 people over 200 times. I had really talented friends help me at times but you get the point, I was surprised when I wasn't solo winning Battle Royales...).
I'm not trying to brag about my previous FPS experiences. My point is that even if someone like me can have such a bad experience on a Factory PMC quest... a lot of players will just quit the game at that point.
I haven't quit the game, I still love it overall... but tonight I guess you could say I have "Ranked Anxiety". It's not even Ranked but I am actually scared to take the humiliation of lets say even 10 deaths for the 8 PMC Kills in the Office Area... For me 10 deaths would be humiliating... I already have 1 death and no kills yet...
.8 k/d isn't even that bad for a small sample size, but imagine how casual FPS players must feel trying to go in vs all these fully kitted Chads when their kit is like 1/4th the price for tasks like this? Imagine if their PC is sorta old too... so not only are they maybe new to the game, they have a trash kit compared to enemies, but their PC also doesn't run the game as well as their opponents which in a game like this even missing 1 shot can be the difference between life or death.

3) I know everyone is complaining about Mosin lately... for new players especially but...
IMO, the Stash Size is the biggest problem for a new player.
I can 100% understand it from a business perspective to make the stash extremely expensive, it truly is a pay to win feature imo.
The reason I can say I understand the business perspective is because I bought EoD! It seemed like the only option if you like the game, it was otherwise impossible for someone like me who values efficiency and to be able to speedily do things...
I got to the point where I had to make a decision. Do I spend 3.5 million Roubles on a Stash Upgrade knowing that if I EVER buy real life game upgrades... I just wasted 3.5 milllion??? Or do I spend a LOT of REAL MONEY to make the game reasonable...
I probably wouldn't even bring up the stash if the game didn't have all these other problems I'm mentioning.
The reason I bring it up is to prove to you how much I like the game, I don't even have a good PC atm and I still bought EoD!
But if they want the game to be fair and balanced the starting stash size is completely unacceptable. Especially for new players... they are going to value their gear so much because they are so weak financially, they don't even have access to the Flea Market... but still they have to waste so much time trying to Tetris stuff, they can't fully get the gear from Scav runs ETC...
I think the starting stash size is 100% the biggest problem in the game for new or casual players, I don't expect it to be fixed because of the real world money but... if they really waned to make the game as good as it can be they'd improve that for sure.

Conclusion:
I just feel that currently even if you really love the game, if you are a new or casual player it's simply too scary to play comfortably. The anxiety of failure is so extreme that even I (who used to be a top FPS player) might not log on any given day because I just don't wanna feel bad.
I think this is especially true if you don't have a top of the line PC. Even just 1 death where you feel maybe if you had a good pc you might of won that fight... that hurts a lot for the fun factor... I sort of want to buy a new graphics card for starters but knowing Unity in a game like this... I might need a new CPU too it's just rough.
For all the reasons I described above, and for many more I didn't mention specifically and I'm sure others have... I think they should at least reconsider the Scav cooldown design so that players can at least log on and just play Scav continually without feeling like they aren't good enough to play this game (this is assuming they don't do "Run Throughs" to prevent Scav abuse).
If players could at least run Scav 24/7 and just get comfortable with the game, I think this game would be a lot more accessible and enjoyable for the vast majority.
submitted by Tokadub to EscapefromTarkov [link] [comments]

I’m STOPPING THIS CRAP CRAIC !!!

FUCK THIS !! ... I’m spending £85 a week & not even getting a buzz ( really ) AND ballooning too ... I’ve said it before ... But if I took 10x120’s ( GHz ) & took just 10 x 60’s ( from Gp) I get a better buzz off them ... And that’s half the strength !! Since lockdown began & since I worked out how to use bitcoin , my tolerance has rocketed along with my weight !! I honestly do NOT think the 120’s are 100% ... Does anybody else think that ??? Imagine we were all taking them & they are duds & we aren’t addicted at all !! Lol !! I think about that all the time ... Don’t ask me why ... Cause the way my head works is Gods own private mystery !! ... Spose the only way to find out is to completely stop !! ... When I started buying the 120’s x 56 I thought that they would last afew weeks ... But na ... How wrong was I ... And it’s not like I’m taking them every day ... I only take them 3 times a week ( used to b 2 but since lockdown I’ve been doing them 3 times ) . Again ... Basically taking them ... NOT getting a hit ... Wasting money & putting weight on ... Cause I’ve fuckin ballooned since I started taking them . MEH !! I saw a beautiful skirt that I wanna buy ... And I measured my waist & FUCK ... That was the final straw ... I’m not putting weight on anywhere else apart from my tummy ... I eat healthy & I work out ... My tummy should b flat ... But these Dhc’s are making me bigger & bigger !! I can talk about this now & afew of U know ... I’m in recovery for an eating disorder which I had for 25 years ... HALF my fuckin life ... But I eventually got help & went through 3 years of intense therapy & got discharged from that December 2018 ... So gaining weight is fucking with my head BIG time ... I don’t wanna relapse & let that back into my life ... So it’s the BIGGEST incentive for me to stop them !! I’m actually excited to do this !! SO motivated !! I got word last week from my PT that we’re gonna b starting again , which couldn’t have come at a better time in my life ... It all ties in to me cuttin down & getting off these things !! So I’m back at the gym on Thursday ... I go 3 times a week ... And just taking my normal script from Gp ... I was actually thinking of telling her & coming off My script altogether ... But I’m not quite ready to do that yet ... However I am SO READY to stop wasting my money on Dhc’s ... Im gonna taper & taper ... Next weekend I’m cutting my ‘bang bangs’ by half ... This is gonna b my last weekend of taking so many 120’s ... AND FEELIN FUCK ALL ... Yes I’ll probably partake now & again ... BUT NOT to the extent I’m doing them now ... Like I remember SO well when 10x30’s would give Me a buzz ... It was only afew months ago ... I wanna b like that again ... I wanna loose My belly ... N I wanna be healthy & live the rest of my life & make it the best life & not b a fuckin pill junkie like I am now . ... Might even stick this up on the main page too ... Dunno 🤷‍♀️ ... So don’t b surprised if U do see it there . ANYWAYS !! ... Phew 😌 !! Just thought I’d put that out there & lettcha’s all know my craic !! How’s everyone else doing ?? Hope Y’All havin a good weekend !! 💗💗💗💞💗💗💗 !! I CAN DO THIS 💪🙏💪 ... I jus wish I didn’t have the know how of Bitcoin ffs 🤦🏻‍♀️... Makes things too easy ... But I HAVE the willpower ... I HAVE the motivation ... I got over my eating disorder ... I stopped smoking after 37 years ... I CAN stop these things that don’t even fuckin work anyways !! OATH !! 💪🙏💪 !!
submitted by Fairywearingboots to Dihydrocodeine [link] [comments]

Alienware Alpha R1 is 2020

Alienware Alpha R1 in 2020*

Mistyped the title...
This is going to be a simple guide to help any R1 owner upgrade and optimize their Alpha.

Upgradable Parts

(In order of importance)
Storage Unit:
HDD OUT
SSD IN
This is by far the easiest upgrade to make and the most effective.
https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100011693%20600038463
Any of those will work, just needs to be 2.5 Inch SATA.
How to Replace Video

WIFI Card:
This is like a 5-15$ upgrade. Go find any Intel 7265ngw off eBay and replace it with your current WIFI card. If you don’t want to buy used then here.
How to Replace Video

RAM:
Ram prices have tanked because of bitcoin mining, so this has become quite a cheap upgrade as well. I’d recommend 16GB just because why not, but if your tight on cash 8GB is fine.
https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100007609%20601190332%20601342186%20600000401&Order=BESTMATCH
How to Replace Video

CPU:
This required the most research. I’d recommend you look through this first. The wattage of the processor slot only ranges from 35w-50w according to a developer of the Alpha (Source). The socket type is LGA 1150.
If you’re going cheap, the i5-4590t (35w) and i5-4690s (65w) are both great options.
i5-4590t
i5-4690s
The i5-4690t (45w) is also great but is hard to find from a trustworthy source for a reasonable price.
If your willing to spend $100+ then easily the i7-4790t (45w). That is probably the best processor to put in the Alpha. All 45w will be used giving you 3.9 GHz Turbo. The T series apparently runs the best on the R1 according to This Reddit post.
How to Replace Video

GPU:
Coming Soon!

Maxed out Alpha R1 specs: i7-4790t, 1TB Samsung SSD, 16GB DDR3, Nvidia Geforce GTX 860m.
(Upgrading to anything better then that is pointless)

Optimizing the Alpha R1

Peripherals

submitted by Kidd-Valley to AlienwareAlpha [link] [comments]

GPU for 165fps and streaming?

So my current build
intel Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 ARMOR
MSI Z170A SLI Plus motherboard
SanDisk Ultra II 2.5" 960GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive
TOSHIBA X300 HDWE160XZSTA 6TB 7200 RPM 128MB CacheSATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Desktop Internal Hard Drive
Cooler Master HAF XB EVO - High Air Flow Test Bench and LAN Box Desktop Computer Case

As for My GPU, I bought a cheap one, was gonna get a more expensive one later then bitcoin happened so that was a no go. After looking at GPUS today I'm confused why they are all so cheap now So Idk if I'm missing something or looking at the wrong card.

My PC is 4 years old so I will probably buy a new one at some point over the next 2 years and I want to get the new GPU now as I have just bought a new monitor that plays 165 frames, and would like to play games at165 while streaming as well, but also want this GPU to be for my next pc as well, What GPU would you guys recommend for this?

What I Don't get is my 1060 is 500$: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-armor-6g-ocv1/p/N82E16814137040?item=9SIAE8D9C96024&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-_-video%20card%20-%20nvidia-_-msi-_-9SIAE8D9C96024&source=region

This 2060 is cheaper: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-super-8gb-gddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-black-silve6361329.p?skuId=6361329&ref=212&loc=1&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9b_4BRCMARIsADMUIyqJpcrgGzilM0wxBTixuNJe5K3ZG30J9lo_2BXzPUFz2bnzj3Ufe0AaAlbaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
and a 2070 is like 100$ more https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2070-super-gv-n207sgaming-oc-8gd/p/N82E16814932212?&quicklink=true


submitted by Tubby200 to buildapc [link] [comments]

Some last minute budget build advice

Im building a pc for my tech illiterate friend within the next 2 weeks who mainly plays competitive online games. The budget is £1000, but the 144hz monitor is £150, so only £850 is left for the build. I've been out of the scene for 2 years, so my current knowledge is a bit rusty, but here is what I came up with: PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor £157.05 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard Asus TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £83.99 @ Amazon UK
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory £69.12 @ Amazon UK
Storage Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive £59.45 @ Amazon UK
Video Card Asus Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB TUF Gaming X3 OC Video Card £364.44 @ Amazon UK
Case CiT F3 MicroATX Mini Tower Case £31.99 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £74.98 @ Amazon UK
Case Fan ARCTIC Arctic F12 74 CFM 120 mm Fan £4.49 @ Amazon UK
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total £845.51
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-13 16:09 BST+0100
The case I plan to buy doesn't happen to be on pcpartpicker, but it costs £29 and has everything we need. I'm mainly cautious on the power supply and motherboard choice though, and I'm worried about any component price changes that might occur within the next 2 weeks. I built my computer shortly after the bitcoin phase, so graphics cards drastically changed in price every other week, so I'm not sure about the current state of component prices nowadays, especially amidst coronavirus.
submitted by deadication1221 to buildapc [link] [comments]

Once again I am asking for your assistance. Years ago you helped me build my 1st PC. It is time to upgrade. Included pictures of battle station and other questions.

Hi everyone. My build is starting to show its age. The more I try to do, the more I see its age. at the bottom of the post you can see my current build.
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.
If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings)
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $369.99 @ Best Buy
CPU Cooler Deepcool CASTLE 360EX 64.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $141.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard ASRock Z370 Taichi ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $299.99 @ Amazon
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $76.99 @ Newegg
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $76.99 @ Newegg
Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -
Video Card Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB WINDFORCE Video Card $1099.99 @ Newegg
Case Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $154.72 @ Amazon
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply -
Monitor Asus ROG Strix XG438Q 43.0" 3840x2160 120 Hz Monitor $1099.99 @ Amazon
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $3320.65
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-15 01:24 EDT-0400
Provide any additional details you wish below.
Here is the computer I got help on years ago on this sub.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor -
Motherboard Asus P8Z68 Deluxe ATX LGA1155 Motherboard -
Memory Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory -
Storage Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -
Video Card MSI Radeon RX 480 4 GB GAMING X Video Card -
Case Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $154.72 @ Amazon
Power Supply Thermaltake TR2 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply -
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $154.72
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-15 01:34 EDT-0400
Questions I Have
Thanks for the help!
submitted by joeweezy10 to buildapc [link] [comments]

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submitted by Hosting_Ultraso1 to u/Hosting_Ultraso1 [link] [comments]

New builder looking for some general advice, as well as a few specific points

I am completely new to all of this, but I felt like this quarantine season would be a good a time as any to try this out. Today I read a lot of articles and picked out parts from pcpartpicker with little clue of what I was doing. I just got components that seemed to be highly rated and decently priced. My intentions for this computer is a solid computer that is nice and I can use for a decent number of years. Nothing crazy like mining bitcoin, just general use and gaming. My general price cap is around $1500, but if its worth enough to go over, I can do a smidgeon more. For a little context, this would be the first PC I owned, so setting up ethernet-related stuff is completely foreign to me.

AAAAAANNNYYYways, I have a couple questions for people who are more familiar with builds.
  1. Can one of you lovely people take a look at my parts list and give me a heads up if I'm missing anything major or made some rookie mistake (Besides a keyboard/mouse). The compatibility notes said that I might need a fan mounting adapter; is there somewhere I could find those and how would I know if it is compatible? Or should I just find another fan?
  2. What do I need to set up an ethernet connection besides a wall and an RJ45 cable? Like, what do I connect the cable to in the PC?
  3. Is my computer underpowered/overpowered for what I want it to do? My biggest thing is being able to run games and such smoothly with good FPS and graphics.
  4. Am I allocating my budget well? Like, should I be paying more for my GPU and less for my power supply? Is there some resource/rule of thumb for how expensive each part should be proportional to the others?
Thank you so much for helping me out! Heres the parts I've selected thus far.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3TFHTC)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [\*AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9nm323/amd-ryzen-5-3600-36-thz-6-core-processor-100-100000031box) | $166.89 @ Walmart
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hmtCmG/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $29.99 @ Newegg
**Motherboard** | [MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jcYQzy/msi-b450-tomahawk-max-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-tomahawk-max) | $114.99 @ Best Buy
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MYH48d/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3000c15) | $79.98 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MwW9TW/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $44.99 @ Adorama
**Video Card** | [Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB OC Low Profile Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Dw4NnQ/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1050-ti-4gb-oc-low-profile-video-card-gv-n105toc-4gl) | $149.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [NZXT H440 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7HkD4D/nzxt-case-cah440ww1) |-
**Power Supply** | [Corsair CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ648d/corsair-power-supply-cp9020101na) | $73.98 @ Newegg
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxmicrosoft-os-kw900140) | $109.99 @ B&H
**Monitor** | [Asus VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rkphP6/asus-monitor-vg248qe) | $249.99 @ Best Buy
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1025.79
| Mail-in rebates | -$5.00
| **Total** | **$1020.79**
| \*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2020-06-04 22:51 EDT-0400 |
submitted by Hammerbro_64 to buildapc [link] [comments]

How much would a Bitcoin node handling 1GB blocks cost today? I did some back-on-the-envelope calculations.

1GB blocks would be able to confirm more than 5000tx/s. That would be VISA-level scale (which handles, on average, 1736tx/s). We often hear that we shouldn't raise the blocksize because then nodes would become too expensive to run. But how expensive exactly?
We have the following costs to take into account:
For now, I'm going to assume a non-pruned full node (i.e. a node that stores all transactions of the blockchain) for personal use, i.e. for a computer built at home. I'll add in the calculations for a pruned node at the end, which would likely be the prefered option for people who merely want to verify the blockchain for themselves. If you don't care about the assumptions and calculations, you can just jump right to the end of this post. If you spotted any error, please inform me and I'll update my calculation.

Storage

There's, on average, one block every 10 minutes, that is 144 every day and 4320 blocks every thirty days. I was able to find a 3TB HDD for $47,50 on Amazon, that is $0.018/GB. Storing all blocks with all transactions of a month (4320GB) would be $78.96/mo. Prices for storage halved from 2014 to 2017, so we can assume that to half in 2022, thus we can reasonably assume it'd cost around $40/mo. in 2022.
But would such an inexpensive hard disk be able to keep up with writing all the data? I found a comparable cheap HDD which can write 127MB/s sequentially (which would be the writing mode of Bitcoin). That would be enough even for 76GB blocks!
Edit: For the UTXO set, we need very fast storage for both reading and writing. Peter__R, in his comment below, estimates this to be 1TB for 4 billion users (which would make ~46,000tx/s if everyone would make 1tx/day, so id'd require about 10GB blocks). jtoomim seems more pessimistic on that front, he says that much of that has to be in RAM. I'll add the $315 I've calculated below to account for that (which would be rather optimistic, keep in mind).

Bandwidth

Bandwidth is more complicated, because that can't just be shipped around like HDDs. I'll just take prices for my country, Germany, using the provider T-online, because I don't know how it works in the US. You can plug in your own numbers based on the calculations below.
1GB blocks/10 minute mean 1.7MB/s. However, this is an average, and we need some wiggle room for transaction spikes, for example at Christmas or Black Friday. VISA handles 150 million transactions per day, that is 1736tx/s, but can handle up to 24,000tx/s (source). So we should be able to handle 13.8x the average throughput, which would be 1.7MB/s x 13.8 = 23.46M/s, or 187.68Mbit/s. The plan on T-online for 250Mbit/s (translated) would be 54.95€/mo (plus setup minus a discount for the first 6 months which seems to cancel out so we'll ignore it), which would be $61.78/mo. This plan is an actual flatrate, so we don't have to worry about hitting any download limit.
Note, however, that we don't order bandwidth for only our Bitcoin node, but also for personal use. If we only needed 2MB/s for personal use, the plan would be 34.95€, thus our node would actually only cost the difference of 20€ per month, or $22.50/mo. Nielsen's Law of Internet Bandwidth claims that a high-end user's connection speed grows by 50% per year. If we assume this is true for pricing too, the bandwidth cost for ~200Mbit/s/mo. would go down to 12.5% (forgot how exponential growth works) 29.6% of its today's cost by 2022, which decreases our number to $2.81/mo. $6.66/mo.
Edit: jtoomim, markblundeberg and CaptainPatent point out that the node would have a much higher bandwidth for announcing transactions and uploading historical blocks. In theory, it would not be necessary to do any of those things and still be able to verify one's own transactions, by never broadcasting any transactions. That would be quite leechy behaviour, though. If we were to pick a higher data plan to get 1000MBit/s downstream and 500MBit/s upstream, it would cost 119.95€/mo., however this plan isn't widely available yet (both links in German). 500MBit/s of upstream would give us max. 21 connected nodes at transaction spikes, or max. 294 connected nodes at average load. That would cost $39.85 in 2022 (with correct exponential growth).

CPU/Memory

CPU/Memory will be bought once and can then run for tens of years, so we'll count these as setup costs. The specs needed, of course, depend on the optimization of the node software, but we'll assume the current bottlenecks will have been removed once running a node actually becomes demanding hardware-wise.
This paper establishes that a 2.4GHz Intel Westmere (Xeon E5620) CPU can verify 71000 signatures per second... which can be bought for $32.88 a pair on Ebay (note: this CPU is from Q1'10). We'd need to verify 76659tx/s at spikes (taking the 13.8x number), so that pair of CPUs (handle 142,000tx/s) seem to just fit right in (given one signature per tx). We'd also have to account for multiple signatures per transaction and all the other parts of verification of transactions, but it seems like the CPU costs are neglegible anyway if we don't buy the freshest hardware available. ~$100 at current prices seem reasonable. Given Moore's Law, we can assume that prices for CPUs half every two years (transistor count x1.4162), so in three years, the CPU(s) should cost around $35.22 ($100/1.4163).
For memory, we again have to take into account the transaction spikes. If we're very unlucky, and transactions spike and there won't be a block for ~1h, the mempool can become very large. If we take the factor of 13.8x from above, and 1h of unconfirmed transactions (20,000,000tx usually, 276,000,000tx on spikes), we'd need 82.8GB (for 300B per transaction).
I found 32GB of RAM (with ECC) for $106, so three of those give us 96GB of RAM for $318 and plenty remaining space for building hash trees, connection management and the operating system. Buying used hardware doesn't seem to decrease the cost significantly (we actually do need a lot of RAM, compared to CPU power).
Price of RAM seems to decrease by a factor of x100 every 10 years (x1.58510), so we can expect 96GB to cost around $79.89 ($318/1.5853) in 2022.
Of course, CPU and memory need to be compatible, which I haven't taken into account. Chug a mainboard (~$150) and a power supply (~$50) into the mix, and the total would be just over $600 for today's prices. Even if mainboard and power supply prices remain the same, we'd still only have to pay around $315 for the whole setup in 2022.

Electricity

I found the following power consumptions:
So we'd have 129W 147.6W + N*6W. Electricity cost average at 12ct/kWh in the US, in Germany this is higher at 30.22ct/kWh. In the US, it would cost $11.14 $12.75 + N*$0.52 (P*12ct/kWh / 1000 * 24h/day *30days / 100ct/$), in Germany 28.06€ 32.11€ + N*1.30€.
At the end of the first year, it would cost $20.12 $21.73/mo. in the US and 50.52€ 54.57€/mo. in Germany.
At the end of the second year, it would cost $29.11 $30.72/mo. for the US and 72.98€ 77.03€/mo. for Germany. It increases by $8.98/mo. per year in the US and by 22.46€/mo. per year in Germany.
Electricity prices in Germany have increased over time due to increased taxation; in the US the price increase has been below inflation rate the last two decades. As it's difficult to predict price changes here, I'm going to assume prices will remain the same.

Conclusion

In summary, we get:
If we add everything up, for today's prices, we get (E: updated all following numbers, but only changed slightly) $132/mo. (US), $187/mo. (DE) for the second year and $71.92/mo. $78/mo. (US), $115.79/mo. $124/mo. (DE) in 2022.
It definitely is quite a bit of money, but consider what that machine would actually do; it would basically do the equivalent of VISA's payment verification multiple times over, which is an amazing feat. Also, piano lessons cost around $50-$100 each, so if we consider a Bitcoin hobbyist, he would still pay much less for his hobby than a piano player, who'd pay about $400 per month. So it's entirely reasonable to assume that even if we had 1GB blocks, there would still be lots of people running full-nodes just so.
How about pruned nodes? Here, we only have to store the Unspent Transaction Output Set (UTXO set), which currently clocks in at 2.8GB. If blocks get 1000 times bigger, we can assume the UTXO set to become 2.8TB. I'll assume ordinary HDD's aren't goint to cut it for reading/writing the UTXO set at that scale, so we'll take some NVMe SSDs for that, currently priced at $105/TB. Three of them would increase our setup by $315 to $915, but decrease our monthly costs. E: However this UTXO set is also required for the non-pruned node, therefore the setup costs stay at $915. Even in the highest power state, the 3 SSDs will need only 18.6W in total, so we'll get a constant 147.6W for the whole system.
In total, this is:
In total, this is $35.25/mo. in the US and $58.57/mo. in Germany for today's prices, or (E:) $19.41/mo. (US) and (E:) $42.73/mo. (DE) in 2022's prices. Which looks very affordable even for a non-hobbyist.
E: spelling
E²: I've added the 3 NVEe SSDs for the UTXO set, as pointed out by others and fixed an error with exponentials, as I figured out.
submitted by eyeofpython to btc [link] [comments]

First Build (for the new future)

The PC I've bought some years ago is starting to act up and with all this quarantine going on I thought I'd invest in a good PC build.
The reason why I want a PC is that I'll probably spend more time in VR in the future and I want my PC to handle it just fine.
I'll probably use my machine for more things that I can think of right now but at this moment I want it to be capable of:
Things I'd see as a big bonus but probably not a must-have as of now:
As everyone and their dog I'm also a programmer but afaik any PC can cover the requirements for any of those operations (WebAssembly anyone?)
I don't need a lot of storage for personal files (hence, only 500GB SSD, maybe even go down to 250GB).
I have no idea about the case nor the power supply. I basically just want to have enough space for good cable management and for all components and airflow. I'd prefer the case to white but in the end it doesn't matter. Power supply is a bit over the recommended 450W so that upgrades won't require a new one.
Lastly I'd like my machine to be really quiet. That probably means more fans with special abilities, right?
An important part for me is upgradability. That's why I want a good CPU+motherboard combo so that I hopefully only have to upgrade the GPU and RAM after a few years.

This is my build although I'd expect the video card and case to be an overkill, right?
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $379.99 @ B&H
CPU Cooler be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler $89.90 @ B&H
Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX Z390-F GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $247.24 @ Amazon
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $84.99 @ Amazon
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $99.99 @ Amazon
Video Card NVIDIA TITAN RTX 24 GB Video Card $2489.98 @ Amazon
Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case $99.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply Cooler Master MWE Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $99.99 @ Best Buy
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $3592.06
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-23 11:45 EDT-0400
submitted by noctmod to buildapc [link] [comments]

Geez, I'm middle aged now. Help me tweak my build.

I have a toddler now, and I can't completely re-educate myself for 2019 parts, so I'm hoping you all can help me figure out if/how I'm going wrong, or if I can get better value for money.
 
My rig from 2010 is on its last legs, and I'm looking to replace.
(In case anyone's nostalgic, it's an i5-760//4GB//Radeon HD5800)
 
I don't want anyone to build this for me - I'm just looking for advice.
My budget is in the 600-900 range. I'm not looking to max-out my budget, but I'd love to know if there are places where I can get better value for money.
I'm in Connecticut.
Keyboard, mouse, speakers, and monitor are separate. I'm fine on my own with that.
 
Use Case - probably pretty light.
Productivity: I'd like to be able to either dual-monitor or use a 4k (not both at the same time).
Gaming: Single monitor, 1080P, and not necessarily the latest and greatest. I'm a patient gamer, and considering my next game will be Axiom Verge or something N64-era.
Overclocking is not expected.
My toddler may end up using it for awhile, but I'm sure he'll need a new one by the time he's 8 or so.
 
Build:
 
PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $79.89 @ OutletPC
Thermal Compound Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste $6.16 @ Amazon
Motherboard ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $79.78 @ OutletPC
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $77.99 @ Newegg
Storage Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $89.89 @ OutletPC
Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $44.84 @ Amazon
Video Card Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB PULSE Video Card $169.99 @ Newegg
Case NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ Best Buy
Power Supply Corsair CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $44.89 @ OutletPC
Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $99.99 @ Best Buy
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total (before mail-in rebates) $798.41
Mail-in rebates -$35.00
Total $763.41
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-13 22:25 EDT-0400
 
Pointed questions:
  1. Am I wasting money with both a 2200G AND dedicated graphics? If so, will the CPU be enough for me, or ought I go with a different chip/card combo?
  2. I kind of guessed at the Graphics card, based on the stickied builds and number of reviews. I'm happy to hear suggestions.
  3. Do I need a separate cooleheatsink? (judging from the stickied builds, no?) Does the CPU come with a stock one?
  4. I could save a few bucks with a 0.25TB SSD. Meh, I'll go with 0.5TB.
  5. I could probably go for 8GB memory, but 16GB may make it last longer.
  6. HDD reliability is pretty important to me. Any insights on manufacturer reputations are very welcome.
  7. Boring cases are fine.
 
Thanks to all for your help!
 
Edit: Learning to format.
 
 
Edit 2:
Guys, GUYS!
There's been a lot of really good suggestions here. Thanks to everyone.
 
But we're not maxing out the budget for the sake of it.
Check out the use case - or the title! I gave up on current-level graphics and FPS games some time ago. I'm not paying $250 for a graphics card (or competing with BitCoin miners).
 
In fact, how far could I downgrade my graphics card, and still hit my targets for desktop apps (and still be able to do much older games)?
For games, let's target: "I could ably play MineCraft without gameplay problems, but the graphics might be mid-level."
 
Here's my "Mark 2":
 
Upgraded the processor - thanks, dar! The 2600X was only $10 extra so I went with that.
Changed the Storage solution to a SSD. - thanks lild.
Changed PSU. - thanks lild.
Removed Windows 10 - will look into that, but it's not something that needs to go into compatibility/performance discussions.
submitted by QuicklyReged to buildmeapc [link] [comments]

Mining with Laptop Question

I have an HP laptop with 2.3 GHz, can I mine Ethereum? I was looking at a calculator and it looks like I may be able to make some money. Also is GHz the same as gh/s? (Sorry, prob a dumb question, I’m sorta a noob)
submitted by mstew45 to EtherMining [link] [comments]

What to do with my new Gaming PC

For context I'm an 18 year old kid who always wanted a gaming pc when I was younger, but my family only gains minimum wage.
Now that I'm older after working my ass off and investing in bitcoin when it was worth 3k last year, I have finally managed to make enough to buy myself a $1.7k gaming pc (actually 1.35k pc + $350 of taxes and shipping).
However I have never thought I'd ever get something like that, and now that's it's being shipped I have no idea what to do with it when it comes. I'm not really a gamer (my latest console is the Nintendo Wii) but I always wanted to play the high end games such as GTA, Witcher, etc...
Any suggestions for someone soon to be initiated to the world of pc master race?
(Specs if anyone is interested:
CPU - i7 8700 3.20 GHz
GPU - RTX 2060 6GB
RAM - 16 GB DDR4 2666 MHz
Motherboard - Intel B360 (I might upgrade that in the future)
Storage - 1 TB SSD + 1 TB HDD
PSU - 600W)
It's mostly prebuilt by ibuypower with a few things I already had lying down added (storage) (I know, prebuilt is blasphemy, but since I needed to spend bitcoins and there are no shops that accept that in my country I had to use Newegg and ship everything, and the shipping costs are like 30€ per item, so I just bought a 1.35k prebuilt and paid a 60€ shipping fee)
submitted by Klappan to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]

To BSG, Expecially Nikita i Would also love for Kotton,Klean,Deadlyslob to put their 2 cents.

i wanna first apologize for my english , im not native im self taught.
Hi everyone , Expecially Nikita for creating a game that i dreamed of since i was a kid. all the other streamers i mentioned its just because you guys play the game alot "just like me" and know pretty much everything about tarkov.
i wanna start off by mentioning a few things about myself to avoid that the kids start spamming "fanboy/l2p/" and all kind of trash comments that i will ignore accordingly. Currently Level 42 Ingame "finished all quests on Day 3" This is a list of what "I" myself think , can make the game better , QOL improvements , changes and tweaks. Also here's my Sys Specs when we get to talk performances. 500gb SSD samsung 840evo i7 6700k Overclocked to 4.8 Ghz. 32gb DDR4 XMP 2.0 2400mhz Corsair Vengeance LPX Asus Rog GTX 1080ti
lets address the first thing that has been seen as an issue.
1) Hatchling. i dont care about hatchling , myself rarely i go for a couple of factory or shoreline hatchet runs , trying to get from 0 to hero just for the challenge of it. A Swing of an Hatchet to the head WILL kill you IRL. so its only fair that the hatchet change gets reverted. to make it "more fair" Left Click on head has to be oneshot , even with 0 STR. Right Click has to be double tap , a blunt hit on the face IRL wont kill you , but will surely stun/disorient you , do alot of damage (just apply the same effect as when you get headshotted with a helmet. ALSO IMPORTANT: to remove "atleast for the moment" some of the desync issues. Remove the Runspeed bonus while Wielding a hatchet. So hatchet is reliable , but not "abusable" for the state of the netcode and servers at the moment.
2) Performance/Netcode: Big issues with the performances atleast from my own experience its only when Scavs are present on the map , and in big numbers. as for the netcode even if Everyone says its better , atleast for me its not. I've noticed in this patch that there's alot more Unregistered Hits on people. in patch 0.7 i could reliable 1 tap , 2 tap people with ease , in this patch sometimes i find myself unloading from 30 to 47 bullets in a person , and he receives 0 damage. something is definatly wrong. My advice is to disable Server Selection , until everything else gets worked out correctly. since right now when im having around 35/40 Ping , people are shooting 1 second , or 1 second and a half , before i can even Hear or See them (its highly noticeable expecially in factory).
3) Hacking: there's not much that can be done here , my suggestion is to have a team atleast of 3 4 people "klean is already doing it" to review Clip and check if someone is actually hacking. but what we really need is BSG to lets say either Hire or Find 3 4 people that are willing to review Logs(If Server and instances have logs on whats happening in a game during a certain time helps)/Clips and actively Hunt for hackers ensure that they are cheating and then proceed to Report to the people to land the ban. I can also be one of those people , for free i dont care , i love tarkov and i have experience in working with Anticheat companies aswell.
4) the STRENGHT "Issue" Strenght is a Skill that without it , the movement feels dull and unresponsive and too slow. (as of right now too slow and hard to skill) if i have to make a rework to strenght i would remove the Speed Bonus , from a 100% , and lets say put it 50% and put it as the "standard" PMC movement speed. Also Run Speed shouldnt Be Istantaneous but Reached overtime. example , im sprinting , from the regular Sprinting speed , in 3 seconds i get to 50% movement speed bonus "faster". or less seconds or more "requires testing" Everyone moves at the same speed. then Rework Strenght to lets say. Wearing Heavy Armor in a raid walking/sprinting/jumping around with it , will Increase your Strenght. and the Strenght (the higher it is) the less Movement/Turning Penalties for Wearing Heavy Armor. Remove the speed bonus for running with an Hatchet , and leave it like it is for other weapons. "you just run faster with a pistol" actually encourages people to bring a secondary. also Make the Strenght affect how fast you can Breach a door. Remove the "Throwing Strenght" for grenades and move that perk to Throwables. Elite Perk: Removes the Penalties for Wearing High Tier Armor run at 50% movement speed with AssaultRifles/Snipers aswell "Same as Everyone else"
5) Endurance (It levels wayyyyyy too slow) wayyy too much. it needs to be upped a tiny bit. Walking/Sprinting/Jumping Should level your endurance. also Holding Breath While ADS should Contribute a tiny bit.
6) Attention: Still doesnt seems like its working , Container Looting Speed and item rarity increase doesnt seem to work (i could be wrong) i have 20 attention , and a buddy of mine has 0 , we did 20 runs together looting 6 Filing Cabinets , 5 jackets , 2 Safes "each one of us" and most of the time he found the better stuff with almost 1 attention. (Could be RNG but have a look at that). it gets boring Fast when you are level 40+ and you have looted the entire world , but everytime you loot a jacket , filing cabinet , most of the things , it takes ages.
7) Charisma doesnt seems like its working yet
Moving away from softskills.
8) AUDIO
i've noticed there's a lot of problems with audio. Positional Audio definatly made things better but Sometimes "even with 40 perception" you cant hear a person Sprinting next to you. and sometimes you can hear them moving in covert / muffle movement. there's huge inconsistency in the Audio that needs to be looked at.
9) Unpopular Opinion , MEDS and BLACK LIMBS I never liked the "BLACKLIMB" mechanic , and i probably never will but as i said previously this is just my "Idea".
Grizzly KIT right now its useless. Grizzly Should be Able to Restore a BlackLimb. at the cost of 33.3% of durability "or something around that number" that will give you 3 Chances to restore black Limbs. How many times you start a raid , the first bullet that flies , you got both your Legs Black and your stomach Black , you gotta extract. Sometimes i just prefer to die than doing the entire way that as of this Patch you cant even Run with black limbs. (i mean you can) but you cant.
Either Make the Grizzly to Fix BlackLimbs. or add an Additional Equipment Slot on the PMC "like a backpack" but you can only put a grizzly there where it can contain up to 6 or 8 Meds that you can QuickBind on the Hotbar 4/5/6/7/8 etc.
or Give us some kind of Expensive med that takes 1 or 2 Slot , that give us the ability to restore 1 black limb. in my honest opinion BlackLimb its not fun nor realistic.
I mean , IRL if i get shot in the leg yeah. i cant walk i get it. but i dont die by getting my leg turned to minced meat even with a 60 RND mag emptied on IT. the fact that you can get 1/2 Tapped with a Shotgun/Saiga on the legs while Wearing 1mil Roubles worth of Armor Makes absolutely no sense.
i Understand that you shoot somebody on the legs , you make him move slower , then you finish him off by shooting him on the body or head. I think this requires some thought , and a change.
10) Weapon Costs. im going to mention pistols cause.. APS,Glock,SR1,Grach cost should be tuned. an AR is Less Expensive than a pistol , a Glock with 21RND Mag and a flashlight sells for 30k Roubles , not even an AK74N sells for that much.
11) Quests , The fun , The Grind , The Unfun: for quests. to be honest i enjoyed most of the quests during the patch. the quest i actually hated. alot are
Ice Cream Cones: it takes way too much to find 6 60 rnd Mags for the quest. the spawn Rate is Abysmal and its only a Painful quest. and the most effective way to complete it is to Rush the ZB-14 Bunker in Woods (Map that only a few people like) Due to the Spawns , and the Poor Hotspot locations on the map.
Pretty Much , most of the shoreline quests. since the Performance and Stutter on Shoreline makes the Experience really really annoying.
Fishing Gear: the fact that you have to place a 100k Rouble Rifle in a fishing boat and takes more than 30 seconds to do its a quest that i dont really like. also the reward of the quest its kinda unjustified for such a quest.
Wet Job Part 6: Absolutely the quest that "kinda" makes no sense , and i hate to do. Level 7 Snipers ? for AP M4 M995 ammo ? a Fully Kitted M4 goes for over 200k Roubles , and to get the "good" ammo you have to grind for days and days and days the State of the Sniper Rifles in the game at the moment is Poor. Autobolting , Wierd Zeroing , Performance Drops with Scopes. Make the quest a pure Nightmare. Also Why should i spend Millions of Roubles to Buy SniperRifles "cause there are extremely High Chances that you are going to die alot" while trying to complete this quest to Unlock an "Assault Rifle Armor Penetrating Round". it Makes more Sense to Change from Sniper level 7 , to Assault Rifles level 7.
Save the Sniper Level Skill quests when Sniper Rifles are actually Fun to use , Working , and when we have more sniper rifles in the game "Grind Snipers to Level 7 , you get a free Barret .50 cal , and the chance to buy them" this is what i call a reward for a grind. "its just an example".
12) Inventory Management , Game Editions Perks , Trader Adjustments
as for perks the only thing i would add is. a Keybar. for Standard Edition and Above. Keybar is essential to the game and run a proper raid also with all the keys that are in the game Right now. the only way to obtain a keybar is running marked "with low % of spawn chance" always if you get there first. and with the Addition of "Durability" For Keys it will be even more "required". Every Standard Edition Player cant even fit Quests Items in their stash , its time for an Upgrade of Stash for All editions. since there are way TOO many quest items , barter items , and just not enough space to put them. I know that Stash Upgrades should come with Hideouts but seriously. the more quests get added , the harder it becomes. half of my EOD stash is Quest items for future Quests of my StandardEdition friend. and he has other quest items aswell.
Keybar should be in the starting gear of Every single edition , and Keybar as an "utility" item we should be able to barter it from Therapist. Same thing goes for document bag , document bag is extremely rare , and you can only put in either Money or Keys. i Would say if you want to keep the document bag this rare , allow it to fit Bitcoins and Goldchains aswell. "you can do it irl , i dont see a reason why we cant ingame" or Allow us to Barter for a document bag from Either Mechanic for 1 or 2 Bitcoins , or Therapist for like some Goldchains or something else.
MBSS Backpack for 2 dogtags ? simply not worth it / unfun. MBSS is a entry level backpack where you cant even put a shotgun in it. it should be able to Be bought , not traded.
The MP153 Shotgun is Too big i remember the change was made to avoid the Influx of M4's Back in 0.6 was it ? or .7 i forgot. it should take 1 less slot. and it should fit in a Trizip atleast. the fact that you can only fit it in a Pilgrim or new Bag. its sad.
i wanna conclude for the moment by saying that for quality of life improvement we should be able to.
"DoubleClick" to buy 1 item or have the "fill items/Deal" next to eachother. Faster Transition Between Traders: Switching between traders is slow and boring.
i've got alot of other ideas , but atm i guess this is "alot" and enough , for the moment.
i Know Nikita that you and your team are working hard on the game , but alot of things are getting overlooked atm that would make the experience 10 times better and more enjoyable for everyone. This is just my 2 cents , i would love a response tho.
PS: Im an Indie Dev myself , mainly Level Designer , Modeler. and i know how most of the Things work developing side.
submitted by tronne to EscapefromTarkov [link] [comments]

Can anyone help me calculate the hash rate of my friends server? I want to buy it, but it may be a bad deal. Noob help needed!

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am looking to buy a server from a friend, and possibly mine bitcoin with it. I cannot find any way to calculate the hash rate of the server, so I would appreciate any help I can get. Here it’s stats:
Intel Xeon D-1520
4c / 8t
2.2 GHz
32 GB DDR4 ECC 2133 MHz
SoftRaid 4x2TB SATA
I know there isn’t a way to calculate the exact hash rate of this setup, but it would be amazing if someone could give me an estimate.
submitted by Jar_O_Memes to BitcoinMining [link] [comments]

First home server; will my plan accomplish my goals?

I'm planning to build my first home server, and I'd love some feedback on my plans before I buy all the hardware. Can you folks help me with some feedback?
 
What I Want to Do with My Hardware
 
Constraints
 
Current Plan
 
Currently Planned Hardware
Type Item Price
CPU Intel - Xeon E5-2660 V2 2.2 GHz 10-Core Processor $192.97 @ PCM
CPU Intel - Xeon E5-2660 V2 2.2 GHz 10-Core Processor $192.97 @ PCM
CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-D14 SE2011 CPU Cooler $89.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-D14 SE2011 CPU Cooler $89.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound Thermal Grizzly - Aeronaut 3.9 g Thermal Paste $11.59 @ Amazon
Motherboard ASRock - EP2C602-4L/D16 SSI EEB Dual-CPU LGA2011 Motherboard $481.98 @ Newegg
Memory Crucial - 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) Registered DDR3-1866 Memory $159.99 @ Amazon
Storage Western Digital - Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $114.89 @ OutletPC
Storage Western Digital - Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $114.89 @ OutletPC
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Storage Western Digital - Red Pro 8 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $140.00
Video Card Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Strix Video Card $359.98 @ B&H
Case Phanteks - Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass ATX Full Tower Case $122.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply Corsair - HX Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $99.99 @ Newegg
Sound Card Creative Labs - Sound Blaster Z 30SB150200000 OEM 24-bit 192 kHz Sound Card $90.77 @ OutletPC
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total (before mail-in rebates) $3002.00
Mail-in rebates -$40.00
Total $2962.00
 
Hardware Notes
 
Budget
 
Other Notes
 
My main question is: will this hardware and software setup accomplish my goals?
My secondary question is: is any of my hardware unnecessary for my goals? are there better ways to eat this Reese's?
Thanks so much for all the help in advance, I've learned so much from this subreddit (and DataHoarding) already!
submitted by therightrook to homelab [link] [comments]

[META] New to PC Building? - September 2018 Edition

Intro

You've heard from all your gaming friends/family or co-workers that custom PCs are the way to go. Or maybe you've been fed up with your HP, Dell, Acer, Gateway, Lenovo, etc. pre-builts or Macs and want some more quality and value in your next PC purchase. Or maybe you haven't built a PC in a long time and want to get back into the game. Well, here's a good place to start.

Instructions

  1. Make a budget for your PC (e.g., $800, $1000, $1250, $1500, etc.).
  2. Decide what you will use your PC for.
    • For gaming, decide what games and at what resolution and FPS you want to play at.
    • For productivity, decide what software you'll need and find the recommended specs to use those apps.
    • For a bit of both, your PC build should be built on the HIGHEST specs recommended for your applications (e.g., if you only play FortNite and need CPU power for CFD simulations, use specs recommended for CFD).
    Here are some rough estimates for builds with entirely NEW parts:
    1080p 60FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,200
    1440p 60FPS high/ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,600
    1080p 144FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: $2,000
    4K 50FPS medium/high-settings modern AAA gaming: > $2,400
    It's noted that some compromises (e.g., lower settings and/or resolution) can be made to achieve the same or slightly lower gaming experience within ±15% of the above prices. It's also noted that you can still get higher FPS on older or used PCs by lowering settings and/or resolution AND/OR buying new/used parts to upgrade your system. Make a new topic about it if you're interested.
    Also note that AAA gaming is different from e-sport games like CSGO, DOTA2, FortNite, HOTS, LoL, Overwatch, R6S, etc. Those games have lower requirements and can make do with smaller budgets.
  3. Revise your budget AND/OR resolution and FPS until both are compatible. Compare this to the recommended requirements of the most demanding game on your list. For older games, you might be able to lower your budget. For others, you might have to increase your budget.
    It helps to watch gaming benchmarks on Youtube. A good example of what you're looking for is something like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eLxSOoSdjY). Take note of the resolution, settings, FPS, and the specs in the video title/description; ask yourself if the better gaming experience is worth increasing your budget OR if you're okay with lower settings and lowering your budget. Note that you won't be able to see FPS higher than 60FPS for Youtube videos; something like this would have to be seen in-person at a computer shop.
  4. Make a build on https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/. If you still have no idea how to put together parts, start here (http://www.logicalincrements.com/) to get an understanding of PC part tiers. If you want more info about part explanations and brief buying tips, see the next section below.
  5. Click on the Reddit logo button next to Markup, copy and paste the generated text (in markup mode if using new Reddit), and share your build for review!
  6. Consider which retailer to buy your parts from. Here's a table comparing different retailers: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1L8uijxuoJH4mjKCjwkJbCrKprCiU8CtM15mvOXxzV1s/edit?usp=sharing
  7. Buy your parts! Use PCPP above to send you e-mail alerts on price drops or subscribe to /bapcsalescanada for deals.
    You can get parts from the following PC retailers in alphabetical order:
  8. After procuring your parts, it's time to build. Use a good Youtube tutorial like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q) that teach BAPC fundamentals, but always refer to your product manuals or other Youtube tutorials for part-specific instructions like CPU mounting, radiator mounting, CMOS resetting, etc. If it everything still seems overwhelming, you can always pay a computer shop or a friend/family member to build it for you.
    It might also be smart to look up some first-time building mistakes to avoid:
  9. Share your experience with us.
  10. If you have any other questions, use the search bar first. If it's not there, make a topic.

BAPC News (Last Updated - 2018/09/20)

CPU

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-9000-series-cpu-faq,37743.html
Intel 9000 CPUs (Coffee Lake Refresh) will be coming out in Q4. With the exception of i9 (8-core, 12 threads) flagship CPUs, the i3, i5, and i7 lineups are almost identical to their Intel 8000 (Coffee Lake) series, but slightly clocked faster. If you are wondering if you should upgrade to the newer CPU on the same tier (e.g., i5-8400 to i5-9400), I don't recommend that you do as you will only see marginal performance increases.

Mobo

https://www.anandtech.com/show/13135/more-details-on-intels-z390-chipset-exposed
Z370s will now be phased out for Z390s boards, which will natively support Intel 9000 CPUs (preferably i5-9600K, i7-9700K, and i9-9900K).

GPU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDrpsv0QIR0
RTX 2080 and 2080 Ti benchmarks are out; they provide ~10 and ~20 frames better than the 1080 Ti and also feature ray tracing (superior lighting and shadow effects) which is featured in only ~30 games so far (i.e., not supported a lot); effectively, they provide +25% more performance for +70% increased cost. My recommendation is NOT to buy them unless you need it for work or have lots of disposable income. GTX 1000 Pascal series are still relevant in today's gaming specs.

Part Explanations

CPU

The calculator part. More GHz is analogous to fast fingers number crunching in the calculator. More cores is analogous to having more calculators. More threads is analogous to having more filing clerks piling more work for the calculator to do. Microarchitectures (core design) is analogous to how the internal circuit inside the calculator is designed (e.g., AMD FX series are slower than Intel equivalents even with higher OC'd GHz speeds because the core design is subpar). All three are important in determining CPU speed.
In general, higher GHz is more important for gaming now whereas # cores and threads are more important for multitasking like streaming, video editing, and advanced scientific/engineering computations. Core designs from both AMD and Intel in their most recent products are very good now, but something to keep in mind.

Overclocking

The basic concept of overclocking (OCing) is to feed your CPU more power through voltage and hoping it does calculations faster. Whether your parts are good overclockers depends on the manufacturing process of your specific part and slight variations in materials and manufacturing process will result in different overclocking capability ("silicon lottery"). The downside to this is that you can void your warranties because doing this will produce excess heat that will decrease the lifespan of your parts AND that there is a trial-and-error process to finding OC settings that are stable. Unstable OC settings result in computer freezes or random shut-offs from excess heat. OCing will give you extra performance often for free or by investing in a CPU cooler to control your temperatures so that the excess heat will not decrease your parts' lifespans as much. If you don't know how to OC, don't do it.

Current Products

Intel CPUs have higher GHz than AMD CPUs, which make them better for gaming purposes. However, AMD Ryzen CPUs have more cores and threads than their Intel equivalents. The new parts are AMD Ryzen 3, 5, or 7 2000 series or Intel i3, i5, or i7 8000 series (Coffee Lake). Everything else is outdated.
If you want to overclock on an AMD system, know that you can get some moderate OC on a B350/B450 with all CPUs. X370/X470 mobos usually come with better VRMs meant for OCing 2600X, 2700, and 2700X. If you don't know how to OC, know that the -X AMD CPUs have the ability to OC themselves automatically without manually settings. For Intel systems, you cannot OC unless the CPU is an unlocked -K chip (e.g., i3-8350K, i5-8600K, i7-8700K, etc.) AND the motherboard is a Z370 mobo. In general, it is not worth getting a Z370 mobo UNLESS you are getting an i5-8600K and i7-8700K.

CPU and Mobo Compatibility

Note about Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 mobos: yes, you CAN pair them up since they use the same socket. You might get an error message on PCPP that says that they might not be compatible. Call the retailer and ask if the mobo you're planning on buying has a "Ryzen 2000 Series Ready" sticker on the box. This SHOULD NOT be a problem with any mobos manufactured after February 2018.
Note about Intel 9000 CPUs on B360 / Z370 mobos: same as above with Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 or X370 boards.

CPU Cooler (Air / Liquid)

Air or liquid cooling for your CPU. This is mostly optional unless heavy OCing on AMD Ryzen CPUs and/or on Intel -K and i7-8700 CPUs.
For more information about air and liquid cooling comparisons, see here:

Motherboard/mobo

Part that lets all the parts talk to each other. Comes in different sizes from small to big: mITX, mATX, ATX, and eATX. For most people, mATX is cost-effective and does the job perfectly. If you need more features like extra USB slots, go for an ATX. mITX is for those who want a really small form factor and are willing to pay a premium for it. eATX mobos are like ATX mobos except that they have more features and are bigger - meant for super PC enthusiasts who need the features.
If you are NOT OCing, pick whatever is cheap and meets your specs. I recommend ASUS or MSI because they have RMA centres in Canada in case it breaks whereas other parts are outside of Canada like in the US. If you are OCing, then you need to look at the quality of the VRMs because those will greatly influence the stability and lifespan of your parts.

Memory/RAM

Part that keeps Windows and your software active. Currently runs on the DDR4 platform for new builds. Go for dual channel whenever possible. Here's a breakdown of how much RAM you need:
AMD Ryzen CPUs get extra FPS for faster RAM speeds (ideally 3200MHz) in gaming when paired with powerful video cards like the GTX 1070. Intel Coffee Lake CPUs use up a max of 2667MHz for B360 mobos. Higher end Z370 mobos can support 4000 - 4333MHz RAM depending on the mobo, so make sure you shop carefully!
It's noted that RAM prices are highly inflated because of the smartphone industry and possibly artificial supply shortages. For more information: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/263031-ram-prices-roof-stuck-way

Storage

Part that store your files in the form of SSDs and HDDs.

Solid State Drives (SSDs)

SSDs are incredibly quick, but are expensive per TB; they are good for booting up Windows and for reducing loading times for gaming. For an old OEM pre-built, upgrading the PC with an SSD is the single greatest speed booster you can do to your system. For most people, you want to make sure the SSD you get is NOT DRAM-less as these SSDs do not last as long as their DRAM counterparts (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybIXsrLCgdM). It is also noted that the bigger the capacity of the SSD, the faster they are. SSDs come in four forms:
The 2.5" SATA form is cheaper, but it is the old format with speeds up to 550MB/s. M.2 SATA SSDs have the same transfer speeds as 2.5" SATA SSDs since they use the SATA interface, but connect directly to the mobo without a cable. It's better for cable management to get an M.2 SATA SSD over a 2.5" SATA III SSD. M.2 PCI-e SSDs are the newest SSD format and transfer up to 4GB/s depending on the PCI-e lanes they use (e.g., 1x, 2x, 4x, etc.). They're great for moving large files (e.g., 4K video production). For more info about U.2 drives, see this post (https://www.reddit.com/bapccanada/comments/8jxfqs/meta_new_to_pc_building_may_2018_edition/dzqj5ks/). Currently more common for enterprise builds, but could see some usage in consumer builds.

Hard Disk Drives (HDDs)

HDDs are slow with transfer speeds of ~100MB/s, but are cheap per TB compared to SSDs. We are now at SATA III speeds, which have a max theoretical transfer rate of 600MB/s. They also come in 5400RPM and 7200RPM forms. 5400RPM uses slightly less power and are cheaper, but aren't as fast at dealing with a large number of small files as 7200RPM HDDs. When dealing with a small number of large files, they have roughly equivalent performance. It is noted that even a 10,000RPM HDD will still be slower than an average 2.5" SATA III SSD.

Others

SSHDs are hybrids of SSDs and HDDs. Although they seem like a good combination, it's much better in all cases to get a dedicated SSD and a dedicated HDD instead. This is because the $/speed better for SSDs and the $/TB is better for HDDs. The same can be said for Intel Optane. They both have their uses, but for most users, aren't worth it.

Overall

I recommend a 2.5" or M.2 SATA ≥ 250GB DRAM SSD and a 1TB or 2TB 7200RPM HDD configuration for most users for a balance of speed and storage capacity.

Video Card/GPU

Part that runs complex calculations in games and outputs to your monitor and is usually the most expensive part of the budget. The GPU you pick is dictated by the gaming resolution and FPS you want to play at.
In general, all video cards of the same product name have almost the same non-OC'd performance (e.g., Asus Dual-GTX1060-06G has the same performance as the EVGA 06G-P4-6163-KR SC GAMING). The different sizes and # fans DO affect GPU OCing capability, however. The most important thing here is to get an open-air video card, NOT a blower video card (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0domMRFG1Rw). The blower card is meant for upgrading pre-builts where case airflow is limited.
For cost-performance, go for the NVIDIA GTX cards because of the cryptomining industry that has inflated AMD RX cards. Bitcoin has taken a -20% hit since January's $10,000+ as of recently, but the cryptomining industry is still ongoing. Luckily, this means prices have nearly corrected itself to original MSRP in 2016.
In general:
Note that if your monitor has FreeSync technology, get an AMD card. If your monitor has G-Sync, get a NVIDIA card. Both technologies allow for smooth FPS gameplay. If you don't have either, it doesn't really matter which brand you get.
For AMD RX cards, visit https://www.pcworld.com/article/3197885/components-graphics/every-amd-radeon-rx-graphics-card-you-can-buy-for-pc-gaming.html

New NVIDIA GeForce RTX Series

New NVIDIA 2000 RTX series have been recently announced and will be carried in stores in Q3 and Q4. Until all of the products have been fully vetted and reviewed, we cannot recommend those yet as I cannot say if they are worth what NVIDIA has marketed them as. But they will be faster than their previous equivalents and will require more wattage to use. The 2070, 2080, and 2080 Ti will feature ray tracing, which is a new feature seen in modern CG movies that greatly enhances lighting and shadow effects. At this time, < 30 games will use ray tracing (https://www.pcgamer.com/21-games-will-support-nvidias-real-time-ray-tracing-here-are-demos-of-tomb-raider-and-control/). It's also noted that the 2080 Ti is the Titan XP equivalent, which is why it's so expensive. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Irs8jyEmmPQ) The community's general recommendation is NOT to pre-order them until we see some reviews and benchmarks from reviewers first.
Looks like a couple of benchmarks are out. While keeping other parts equal the following results were obtained(https://videocardz.com/77983/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-and-rtx-2080-official-performance-unveiled). So the 2080 and 2080 Ti are better than last generation's 1080 Ti by ~10 and ~20 frames respectively.

Case

Part that houses your parts and protects them from its environment. Should often be the last part you choose because the selection is big enough to be compatible with any build you choose as long as the case is equal to or bigger than the mobo form factor.
Things to consider: aesthetics, case airflow, cable management, material, cooling options (radiators or # of fan spaces), # fans included, # drive bays, toolless installation, power supply shroud, GPU clearance length, window if applicable (e.g., acrylic, tempered glass), etc.
It is recommended to watch or read case reviews on Youtube to get an idea of a case's performance in your setup.

Power Supply/PSU

Part that runs your PC from the wall socket. Never go with an non-reputable/cheap brand out on these parts as low-quality parts could damage your other parts. Recommended branded PSUs are Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic, and Thermaltake, generally. For a tier list, see here (https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/).

Wattage

Wattage depends on the video card chosen, if you plan to OC, and/or if you plan to upgrade to a more powerful PSU in the future. Here's a rule of thumb for non-OC wattages that meet NVIDIA's recommendations:
There are also PSU wattage calculators that you can use to estimate your wattage. How much wattage you used is based on your PC parts, how much OCing you're doing, your peripherals (e.g., gaming mouse and keyboard), and how long you plan to leave your computer running, etc. It is noted that these calculators use conservative estimates, so use the outputted wattage as a baseline of how much you need. Here are the calculators (thanks, VitaminDeity).
Pick ONE calculator to use and use the recommended wattage, NOT recommended product, as a baseline of what wattage you need for your build. Note that Cooler Master and Seasonic use the exact calculator as Outervision. For more details about wattage, here are some reference videos:

Modularity

You might also see some info about modularity (non-modular, semi-modular, or fully-modular). These describe if the cables will come connected to the PSU or can be separated of your own choosing. Non-modular PSUs have ALL of the cable connections attached to the PSU with no option to remove unneeded cables. Semi-modular PSUs have separate cables for HDDs/SSDs and PCI-e connectors, but will have CPU and mobo cables attached. Modular PSUs have all of their cables separate from each other, allowing you to fully control over cable management. It is noted that with decent cooling and airflow in your case, cable management has little effect on your temperatures (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDCMMf-_ASE).

80+ Efficiency Ratings

As for ratings (80+, 80+ bronze, 80+ gold, 80+ platinum), these are the efficiencies of your PSU. Please see here for more information. If you look purely on electricity costs, the 80+ gold PSUs will be more expensive than 80+ bronze PSUs for the average Canadian user until a breakeven point of 6 years (assuming 8 hours/day usage), but often the better performance, longer warranty periods, durable build quality, and extra features like fanless cooling is worth the extra premium. In general, the rule of thumb is 80+ bronze for entry-level office PCs and 80+ gold for mid-tier or higher gaming/workstation builds. If the price difference between a 80+ bronze PSU and 80+ gold PSU is < 20%, get the 80+ gold PSU!

Warranties

Warranties should also be looked at when shopping for PSUs. In general, longer warranties also have better PSU build quality. In general, for 80+ bronze and gold PSU units from reputable brands:
Any discrepancies are based on varied wattages (i.e., higher wattages have longer warranties) or updated warranty periods. Please refer to the specific product's warranty page for the correct information. For EVGA PSUs, see here (https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/). For Seasonic PSUs, see here (https://seasonic.com/support#period). For Corsair PSUs, see here (https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/warranty).
For all other PSU inquiries, look up the following review sites for the PSUs you're interested in buying:
These guys are engineering experts who take apart PSUs, analyze the quality of each product, and provide an evaluation of the product. Another great website is http://www.orionpsudb.com/, which shows which PSUs are manufactured by different OEMs.

Operating System (OS)

Windows 10

The most common OS. You can download the ISO here (https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10). For instructions on how to install the ISO from a USB drive, see here (https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/desktop/install-windows-from-a-usb-flash-drive) or watch a video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLfnuE1unS8). For most users, go with the 64-bit version.
If you purchase a Windows 10 retail key (i.e., you buy it from a retailer or from Microsoft directly), keep in mind that you are able to transfer it between builds. So if you're building another PC for the 2nd, 3rd, etc. time, you can reuse the key for those builds PROVIDED that you deactivate your key before installing it on your new PC. These keys are ~$120.
However, if you have an OEM key (e.g., pre-builts), that key is tied specifically to your mobo. If you ever decide to upgrade your mobo on that pre-built PC, you might have to buy a new Windows 10 license. For more information, see this post (https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/windows/windows-10-oem-or-retail-3665849/). The cheaper Windows 10 keys you can find on Kinguin are OEM keys; activating and deactivating these keys may require phoning an automated Microsoft activation line. Most of these keys are legitimate and cost ~$35, although Microsoft does not intend for home users to obtain this version of it. Buyer beware.
The last type of key is a volume licensing key. They are licensed in large volumes to corporate or commercial usage. You can find lots of these keys on eBay for ~$10, but if the IT department who manages these keys audit who is using these keys or if the number of activations have exceeded the number allotted on that one key, Microsoft could block that key and invalidate your license. Buyer beware.
For more information on differentiating between all three types of keys, see this page (https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/49586-determine-if-windows-license-type-oem-retail-volume.html).
If money is tight, you can get Windows 10 from Microsoft and use a trial version of it indefinitely. However, there will be a watermark in the bottom-right of your screen until you activate your Windows key.

MacOS

If you're interested in using MacOS, look into Hackintosh builds. This will allow you to run MacOS to run on PC parts, saving you lots of money. These builds are pretty picky about part compatibility, so you might run into some headaches trying to go through with this. For more information, see the following links:

Linux

If you're interested in a free open-source OS, see the following links:
For more information, go to /linux, /linuxquestions, and /linux4noobs.

Peripherals

Monitors

Keyboards and Mice

Overall

Please note that the cost-performance builds will change daily because PC part prices change often! Some builds will have excellent cost-performance one day and then have terrible cost-performance the next. If you want to optimize cost-performance, it is your responsibility to do this if you go down this route!
Also, DO NOT PM me with PC build requests! It is in your best interests to make your own topic so you can get multiple suggestions and input from the community rather than just my own. Thanks again.

Sample Builds

Here are some sample builds that are reliable, but may not be cost-optimized builds. These builds were created on September 9, 2018; feel free to "edit this part list" and create your own builds.

Links

Helpful links to common problems below:

Contributors

Thanks to:

Housekeeping

2019/09/22
2019/09/18
Updates:
2019/09/09
Updates:
Sorry for the lack of updates. I recently got a new job where I work 12 hours/day for 7 days at a time out of the city. What little spare time I have is spent on grad school and the gym instead of gaming. So I've been pretty behind on the news and some might not be up-to-date as my standards would have been with less commitments. If I've made any mistakes, please understand it might take a while for me to correct them. Thank you!
submitted by BlackRiot to bapccanada [link] [comments]

Want to upgrade my PC, would like advice

Hi all,
I built my current PC for ~£600 about five years ago, so its starting to get a bit outdated and occasionally laggy. I'm looking to upgrade but I don't know where to start!
I think I want to be upgrading my GPU and SSD, but I'm not sure if this would mean that I need up update my mobo/psu/cooler too. If something else is the bottleneck here, or you need any other information, please let me know!
My current setup looks like this: PCPartPicker Part List
Type Item Price
CPU Intel - Core i5-4430 3 GHz Quad-Core Processor -
Motherboard Asus - H81M-K Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard -
Memory Kingston - 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1600 Memory £78.62 @ Amazon UK
Storage SanDisk - Ultra Plus 128 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -
Storage Seagate - Barracuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive -
Video Card XFX - Radeon R9 280X 3 GB Double Dissipation Video Card -
Case Cooler Master - N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case £42.33 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply EVGA - 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £52.98 @ CCL Computers
Optical Drive Samsung - SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer -
Thanks for any advice!
submitted by Sibblin to buildapc [link] [comments]

PSA: when you sell your Litecoin, you shouldn't be selling under $4.50 (or 0.038 BTC) per coin

I know that we have a lot of new miners, so let me educate you guys. Miners are a strong driver of the selling price of Litecoin, if not the driver. When you create a sell order (asks) on BTC-e or another exchange, they tend to fill in a default price that will match some existing buy orders (bids). This is BAD, because as a miner you should DICTATE the price you want for your coins.
So, how do you, as a miner, determine what the price should be? Simple: you overlay a difficulty graph on to a trading graph, and you try and keep them aligned. At the moment the trading price is way, way below the difficulty graph, miners are getting screwed. I know that matching the graphs is painful, so don't worry, CryptoCoinCharts has done the heavy lifting for you:
Here's the graph if you sell LTC for USD
Here's the graph if you sell LTC for BTC
Ideally, the trading price should match or exceed the price as indicated by the difficulty graph. If enough miners refuse to sell at a low, unprofitable price, then the exchange rate will catch up to difficulty, and we'll all profit. You control the price, the demand to purchase is created by traders and individuals who want to use Litecoin to make purchases. They have to buy from you. Start setting prices where they should be!
submitted by fluffyponyza to litecoin [link] [comments]

Is a 38 Gh/s miner for $750 worth it, ignoring power cost and receiving the unit in hand tomorrow?

Basically what the title says. If yes, how much profit can I reasonably expect to make?
submitted by taimoor2 to BitcoinMining [link] [comments]

I had like 3 friends ask me how to build a PC in the past week so I made this to help them.

(Reddit Edit: Help my improve the document with productive constructive comments on what I got wrong or messed up! Im only human lol
Also a lot of this is supposed to be kinda humorous. I didn't think I had to say that but, hey, its the internet.
I appreciate the positive and productive comments! )
Beginners basic guide to building your own PC as of early 2018
(EDIT: Sorry for being a MSI/Corsair Fanboy)
Heres a collection of thoughts to consider when building your own personal PC
As always Id personally use PCPartPicker.com to configure your parts and for further thoughts on compatibility.
First off building a computer is 100% based around what you plan to use the computer for.
Here are a few uses and generic ideas of what to go for. Audio Editing: Lots of small tasks that need to be completed quickly without lag. - Fast Processor( >4GHZ) - Fast RAM (MHZ) -At least 16 gigs! - Fast Storage, SSD manditorily - M.2 or PCI for best performance. - Shitty Graphics card, graphics card there only to keep the cpu from doing other tasks when working. - Can be a few generations or years old. - Many screens for lots of plug in windows to be open Video Editing: Lots of large to render and files to read. - Multi core processor the more the merrier - SSD for fast read/write of large video files. - Insane graphics card, AMD graphics cards are debatibly better but the nvidia Quadro series are specific for video rendering. Gaming: No more than 4 cores intense graphics card - 92% of games are not coded for more than 4 cores so why spend the extra money for it. - SSD for quick load screens - Nvidia cards, 10 series, the higher the number the better. Titan cards for MAXIMUM OVERDRIVE! Coding: quick processor for lots of small tasks. Ergonomic peripherials? - Dear god please dont use a mechanical keyboard so that your coworkers dont kill you. Home office: Everything can be a few gens behind so you can get the best power per dollar spent. - Sorry that Gateway doesnt exist anymore. I guess try Dell... 
Parts (Expensive Legos)
CPU (tells things to go places and outputs data) Basically three main routes to go for: Intel, AMD, or ASIC. Intel - Gaming, Data center, Hackintosh Pros: Cooler, Faster speed (GHZ), short small tasks faster Cons: $$$$, less cores AMD - Gaming, Personal Computing, Large task processing Pros: Lots of cores, better price per performance, faster processing of large tasks Cons: Hot chips, large chips?, compatibility issues with MacOS. ASIC - "Application-specific integrated circuit" Pros: Does the task that they are made to do insanely efficently, great for mining. Cons: Literally does nothing else. Holy hell these are expensive, very hot (fans will get loud) CPU Cooler (Im a big fan) Most come with an in box cooler that are ok but please buy aftermarket. In Box - the free shitty cooler that comes with the processor. Pros: Free. Cons: Ugly, makes chip run hot, hard to clean Air cooler - oldest type of cooler but new designs are highly efficent. Pros: Only cooler that has the possibility of being 100% quiet, most likely cheaper Cons: large, if cooler isnt large enough for the chips thermal output the fans will be loud. Liquid - Custom pipes are beautiful, AIO is easy to install and offers similare performance. Pros: Looks cool, great temperatures, "quiet" Cons: Water pump has possibility of being loud, possible spills Phase Change - uses the technology of refridgerators to cool the chip Pros: Can overclock until the chip breaks. (whats colder than cold? ICE COLD!) Cons: Loud (compressor noise), Large pipes, just why.... Motherboard (the convienacnce store of computer parts) Really just about what type of I/O you want. - MAKE SURE FORM FACTOR FITS YOUR CASE! (or vice versa) - Look for PCI lanes for expansion. - How many graphic cards do you have? - PCI based interfaces? - PCI SSD? - PCI DAC? - PCI WIFI? - USbs? Network? Audio? - How many lanes of RAM? - DOES IT FIT YOUR PROCESSOR!?! (really tho) - M.2? - How many sata interaces? Good Brands: MSI, ASUS, Gigabyte Bad Brands: AS(s)Rock, Dell Memory (Dory) - The more the merrier - No less than 8gb for a functional windows machine (16 gb to never have a problem) - Use all the lanes your computer has to offer! the more lanes to access the faster the data can travel! -Imagine drinking a milkshake. If the straw is wider you can drink more of the milkshake than a skinny straw. - Faster MHZ for faster data access but give minimal performance differances - Please get ram with heat spreadders unles youre building a server with high airflow. - Make sure the type (DDR3 or DDR4) of RAM matches what your processomotherboard call for. Good Brands: Corsair, G.Skill, Ballistix Storage (Grandpa that remembers everythign about how things used to be but takes forever to learn a new tasK) Speed or massive storage? slower is cheaper. Golden ratio of speed/storage/price is 250-500 gb SSD and a 1+ tb disk drive. *Max speeds listed are for a single drive not RAID* Hard Disk Drives (HDD) - Cheapest and slowest - read/write speeds of < 0.5gb/s - 7200+ RPM or GTFO - Higher Speed drives can access data faster. - Do not move while powered up. physical parts will break. - Larger Cahche = faster Read/Write Speeds Pros: Cheap, Holds massive amounts of data Cons: Slower than molasses in a frezer Reputible Brands: Seagate, WD Solid State Drives (SSD) - necessity for quick boots and fast load screens (can only be re-written to so many times) - SATA based (2.5 inch)- Read/Write speeds capped @ 6 gb/s Pros: Most economical, form factor fits with old computers, Cons: "Slow" compared to other ssd's (but stil 12 times faster than a HDD) - M.2 based - Read/Write speeds capped @ 10 gb/s Pros: Size of a sick of gum! High End but not too expensive to be out of reach. Cons: Expensive for any size over 500 gb - PCI based - Read/Write speeds capped @ 20 gb/s for PCI3, x4 Pros: HOLY BANDWIDTH BATMAN! Faster than that little creepy ghost thats always in the corner of you eye Cons: You might have to take out a loan to buy one. *takes up a x4 PCI Lane* Reputible Brands: Samsung! Corsair, Plextor, Intel, Kingston, Crucial Video Card (that one kid that has thick glasses and is really good at math) - A regular old PCI card that handles all of the video rendering and output for your computer. - ASIC PCI cards. - The PCBs and chips are patented by two main companies but the differances come from line up and varying manufacturer cooling devices. - The more memory the better -NVIDIA (Team Green) Great for gaming, has specific card series for intensive rendering. Lazy driver updates. - Gaming - 900 series - Cheap - Low performance - Can play any video game made befrore 2010 on max settings - 1000 (ten) series - Expensive (thanks bitcoin miners...) - Great for VR! - Video Rendering -Quadro Series - Gaming and Rendering - Titan X - Maxwell based chip same as 900 series cards - Titan XP - Pascal based chip same as 10 series cards -AMD (Team Red) Underdog does the same thing but slighly worse and cheaper. (except video rendering) - Gaming - RX 400 series - Cheap - Hot - RX 500 series - Cheap - Ok at VR and deacent gaming frame rates. - Not bad but not particularly great either. - Video Rendering - Fire Pro series - Gaming and Rendering - Vega series -Good luck finding one to buy lmao Case (Fancy clothing for your parts!) - Similar to human clothing you want it to do a few main things really well with compromises for each extreme. - Durability - Steel - Incredibly durable - Creates Farady cage for components - Heavy af - Magnets, just magnets.... - Rust over time - Aluminium - Light - East to bend for modding or "physical maintenance" - Less likely to rust - Huzzah for Farady cages! - Plastic - Just dont - no electrical Ground - no faraday cage - Light AF! - Breath (Airflow) - positive internal airflow! - larger fans push the same amount of air with less speed/noise - Looks - Window? - RGB - Cool Paint? - Fit all your parts - graphics card length/ clearacne - support for liquid cooling raiators? - How many spots for HDD/SSDs - Motherboard format - Cable management! Power Supply (FIGHT MILK) - Rule of thumb: BUy Powersupply that outputs 1.5 times the wattage that you need. - You can walk further than you can you can run. - The PSU can casually output 50-75% power for much longer than at 90-100% (without failure) - If you never demand enough wattage for it to get hot the fan doesnt have to turn on therefore making it quieter. - Modular means you can remove/replace the cables from the PSU. Reputible Brands: Corsair, EVGA Optical Drive (motorized cup holder) - You can download most things today so I'd suggest against it unless you really NEED to watch/write DVD's/CD's Operating System (software that makes everything work) Windows (Always Updates) - Compatible with just about everything - Easy to learn to code on! - POS inital browser - Likely to get virus's Linux (Penguins are cute) - Unique - takes less resources to run - Barebones - Incredibly personalizable! - Compatibility issues with just about everything MacOS (Linux but more annoying) - It is legal! - Great for art and your grandma that doenst know how to use computers! - User friendly - Compatibility issues with various hardware - Confusing/Limiting coding structure Peripherials (cables everywhere!) - Keyboard (higer Polling rate is better) - Mechanical (key is pressed at an exact stroke length every time - Mouse (Higher Polling rate is better) - more buttons = better? - DPI (Dots Per Inch) - In theory, if a mouse has 1600 DPI, then, if you move your mouse one inch (2.54 cm), the mouse cursor will move 1600 pixels - Higher DPI the faster your cursor is able to be moved. - Monitor - In theory the human eye cant see faster than 60 frames per second. - Keep in mind Pixel ratio! - 4k screen that is 22inches will have more pixels in a square inch than a 4k screen that is 28 inches. - Interface? - DVI (Analog) - thumbscrews..... - can do two monitors with one port! - support for 4k - VGA (Analog) - thumbscrews... - max resolution is 1440p - Display Port (digital) - nice button clip - supports 4k - HDMI (Digital) - 1.2 or higer supports 4k - DAC/Speakers/Headphones - Dont even get me started - Microphone - Dont get me started PT.2 Other (other) - UPS (uninterruptible power supply) Just a battery that allows your computer to have some time if the power ever goes out so that you have time to save your work. - Cable Organization materials! - Zipties - velcro - LED LIGHTING! - Manditory - Extra/Better fans - More pressure, less woosh - IFIXIT Pro Tech Toolkit - becasue who buys just one torx wrench. - Cute kitten mousepad - Yes, it has to be a cat. Dont argue 
This is a very general entry into building computers and what you should buy/look for. If you have any questions/comments send me an e-mail!
-Zac Holley-
submitted by Zac_Attack13 to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]

Console gaming is hardly different from PC gaming, and much of what people say about PC gaming to put it above console gaming is often wrong.

I’m not sure about you, but for the past few years, I’ve been hearing people go on and on about PCs "superiority" to the console market. People cite various reasons why they believe gaming on a PC is “objectively” better than console gaming, often for reasons related to power, costs, ease-of-use, and freedom.
…Only problem: much of what they say is wrong.
There are many misconceptions being thrown about PC gaming vs Console gaming, that I believe need to be addressed. This isn’t about “PC gamers being wrong,” or “consoles being the best,” absolutely not. I just want to cut through some of the stuff people use to put down console gaming, and show that console gaming is incredibly similar to PC gaming. I mean, yes, this is someone who mainly games on console, but I also am getting a new PC that I will game on as well, not to mention the 30 PC games I already own and play. I’m not particularly partial to one over the other.
Now I will mainly be focusing on the PlayStation side of the consoles, because I know it best, but much of what I say will apply to Xbox as well. Just because I don’t point out many specific Xbox examples, doesn’t mean that they aren’t out there.

“PCs can use TVs and monitors.”

This one isn’t so much of a misconception as it is the implication of one, and overall just… confusing. This is in some articles and the pcmasterrace “why choose a PC” section, where they’re practically implying that consoles can’t do this. I mean, yes, as long as the ports of your PC match up with your screen(s) inputs, you could plug a PC into either… but you could do the same with a console, again, as long as the ports match up.
I’m guessing the idea here is that gaming monitors often use Displayport, as do most dedicated GPUs, and consoles are generally restricted to HDMI… But even so, monitors often have HDMI ports. In fact, PC Magazine has just released their list of the best gaming monitors of 2017, and every single one of them has an HDMI port. A PS4 can be plugged into these just as easily as a GTX 1080.
I mean, even if the monitoTV doesn’t have HDMI or AV to connect with your console, just use an adaptor. If you have a PC with ports that doesn’t match your monitoTV… use an adapter. I don’t know what the point of this argument is, but it’s made a worrying amount of times.

“On PC, you have a wide range of controller options, but on console you’re stuck with the standard controller."

Are you on PlayStation and wish you could use a specific type of controller that suits your favorite kind of gameplay? Despite what some may believe, you have just as many options as PC.
Want to play fighting games with a classic arcade-style board, featuring the buttons and joystick? Here you go!
Want to get serious about racing and get something more accurate and immersive than a controller? Got you covered.
Absolutely crazy about flying games and, like the racers, want something better than a controller? Enjoy!
Want Wii-style motion controls? Been around since the PS3. If you prefer the form factor of the Xbox One controller but you own a PS4, Hori’s got you covered. And of course, if keyboard and mouse it what keeps you on PC, there’s a PlayStation compatible solution for that. Want to use the keyboard and mouse that you already own? Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
Of course, these aren’t isolated examples, there are plenty of options for each of these kind of controllers. You don’t have to be on PC to enjoy alternate controllers.

“On PC you could use Steam Link to play anywhere in your house and share games with others.”

PS4 Remote play app on PC/Mac, PSTV, and PS Vita.
PS Family Sharing.
Using the same PSN account on multiple PS4s/Xbox Ones and PS3s/360s, or using multiple accounts on the same console.
In fact, if multiple users are on the same PS4, only one has to buy the game for both users to play it on that one PS4. On top of that, only one of them has to have PS Plus for both to play online (if the one with PS Plus registers the PS4 as their main system).
PS4 Share Play; if two people on separate PS4s want to play a game together that only one of them owns, they can join a Party and the owner of the game can have their friend play with them in the game.
Need I say more?

“Gaming is more expensive on console.”

Part one, the Software
This is one that I find… genuinely surprising. There’s been a few times I’ve mentioned that part of the reason I chose a PS4 is for budget gaming, only to told that “games are cheaper on Steam.” To be fair, there are a few games on PSN/XBL that are more expensive than they are on Steam, so I can see how someone could believe this… but apparently they forgot about disks.
Dirt Rally, a hardcore racing sim game that’s… still $60 on all 3 platforms digitally… even though its successor is out.
So does this mean you have to pay full retail for this racing experience? Nope, because disk prices.
Just Cause 3, an insane open-world experience that could essentially be summed up as “break stuff, screw physics.” And it’s a good example of where the Steam price is lower than PSN and XBL:
Not by much, but still cheaper on Steam, so cheaper on PC… Until you look at the disk prices.
See my point? Often times the game is cheaper on console because of the disk alternative that’s available for practically every console-available game. Even when the game is brand new.
Dirt 4 - Remember that Dirt Rally successor I mentioned?
Yes, you could either buy this relatively new game digitally for $60, or just pick up the disk for a discounted price. And again, this is for a game that came out 2 months ago, and even it’s predecessor’s digital cost is locked at $60. Of course, I’m not going to ignore the fact that Dirt 4 is currently (as of writing this) discounted on Steam, but on PSN it also happens to be discounted for about the same amount.
Part 2: the Subscription
Now… let’s not ignore the elephant in the room: PS Plus and Xbox Gold. Now these would be ignorable, if they weren’t required for online play (on the PlayStation side, it’s only required for PS4, but still). So yes, it’s still something that will be included in the cost of your PS4 or Xbox One/360, assuming you play online. Bummer, right?
Here’s the thing, although that’s the case, although you have to factor in this $60 cost with your console, you can make it balance out, at worst, and make it work out for you as a budget gamer, at best. As nice as it would be to not have to deal with the price if you don’t want to, it’s not like it’s a problem if you use it correctly.
Imagine going to a new restaurant. This restaurant has some meals that you can’t get anywhere else, and fair prices compared to competitors. Only problem: you have to pay a membership fee to have the sides. Now you can have the main course, sit down and enjoy your steak or pasta, but if you want to have a side to have a full meal, you have to pay an annual fee.
Sounds shitty, right? But here’s the thing: not only does this membership allow you to have sides with your meal, but it also allows you to eat two meals for free every month, and also gives you exclusive discounts for other meals, drinks, and desserts.
Let’s look at PS Plus for a minute: for $60 per year, you get:
  • 2 free PS4 games, every month
  • 2 free PS3 games, every month
  • 1 PS4/PS3 and Vita compatible game, and 1 Vita-only game, every month
  • Exclusive/Extended discounts, especially during the weekly/seasonal sales (though you don’t need PS Plus to get sales, PS Plus members get to enjoy the best sales)
  • access to online multiplayer
So yes, you’re paying extra because of that membership, but what you get with that deal pays for it and then some. In fact, let’s ignore the discounts for a minute: you get 24 free PS4 games, 24 free PS3 games, and 12 Vita only + 12 Vita compatible games, up to 72 free games every year. Even if you only one of these consoles, that’s still 24 free games a year. Sure, maybe you get games for the month that you don’t like, then just wait until next month.
In fact, let’s look at Just Cause 3 again. It was free for PS Plus members in August, which is a pretty big deal. Why is this significant? Because it’s, again, a $60 digital game. That means with this one download, you’ve balanced out your $60 annual fee. Meaning? Every free game after that is money saved, every discount after that is money saved. And this is a trend: every year, PS Plus will release a game that balances out the entire service cost, then another 23 more that will only add icing to that budget cake. Though, you could just count games as paying off PS Plus until you hit $60 in savings, but still.
All in all, PS Plus, and Xbox Gold which offers similar options, saves you money. On top of that, again, you don't need to have these to get discounts, but with these memberships, you get more discounts.
Now, I’ve seen a few Steam games go up for free for a week, but what about being free for an entire month? Not to mention that; even if you want to talk about Steam Summer Sales, what about the PSN summer sale, or again, disc sale discounts? Now a lot of research and math would be needed to see if every console gamer would save money compared to every Steam gamer for the same games, but at the very least? The costs will balance out, at worst.
Part 3, the Systems
  • Xbox and PS2: $299
  • Xbox 360 and PS3: $299 and $499, respectively
  • Xbox One and PS4: $499 and $399, respectively.
Rounded up a few dollars, that’s $1,000 - $1,300 in day-one consoles, just to keep up with the games! Crazy right? So called budget systems, such a rip-off.
Well, keep in mind that the generations here aren’t short.
The 6th generation, from the launch of the PS2 to the launch of the next generation consoles, lasted 5 years, 6 years based on the launch of the PS3 (though you could say it was 9 or 14, since the Xbox wasn’t discontinued until 2009, and the PS2 was supported all the way to 2014, a year after the PS4 was released). The 7th gen lasted 7 - 8 years, again depending on whether you count the launch of the Xbox 360 to PS3. The 8th gen so far has lasted 4 years. That’s 17 years that the console money is spread over. If you had a Netflix subscription for it’s original $8 monthly plan for that amount of time, that would be over $1,600 total.
And let’s be fair here, just like you could upgrade your PC hardware whenever you wanted, you didn’t have to get a console from launch. Let’s look at PlayStation again for example: In 2002, only two years after its release, the PS2 retail price was cut from $300 to $200. The PS3 Slim, released 3 years after the original, was $300, $100-$200 lower than the retail cost. The PS4? You could’ve either gotten the Uncharted bundle for $350, or one of the PS4 Slim bundles for $250. This all brings it down to $750 - $850, which again, is spread over a decade and a half. This isn’t even counting used consoles, sales, or the further price cuts that I didn’t mention.
Even if that still sounds like a lot of money to you, even if you’re laughing at the thought of buying new systems every several years, because your PC “is never obsolete,” tell me: how many parts have you changed out in your PC over the years? How many GPUs have you been through? CPUs? Motherboards? RAM sticks, monitors, keyboards, mice, CPU coolers, hard drives— that adds up. You don’t need to replace your entire system to spend a lot of money on hardware.
Even if you weren’t upgrading for the sake of upgrading, I’d be amazed if the hardware you’ve been pushing by gaming would last for about 1/3 of that 17 year period. Computer parts aren’t designed to last forever, and really won’t when you’re pushing them with intensive gaming for hours upon hours. Generally speaking, your components might last you 6-8 years, if you’ve got the high-end stuff. But let’s assume you bought a system 17 years ago that was a beast for it’s time, something so powerful, that even if it’s parts have degraded over time, it’s still going strong. Problem is: you will have to upgrade something eventually.
Even if you’ve managed to get this far into the gaming realm with the same 17 year old hardware, I’m betting you didn’t do it with a 17 year Operating System. How much did Windows 7 cost you? Or 8.1? Or 10? Oh, and don’t think you can skirt the cost by getting a pre-built system, the cost of Windows is embedded into the cost of the machine (why else would Microsoft allow their OS to go on so many machines).
Sure, Windows 10 was a free upgrade for a year, but that’s only half of it’s lifetime— You can’t get it for free now, and not for the past year. On top of that, the free period was an upgrade; you had to pay for 7 or 8 first anyway.
Point is, as much as one would like to say that they didn’t need to buy a new system every so often for the sake of gaming, that doesn’t mean they haven’t been paying for hardware, and even if they’ve only been PC gaming recently, you’ll be spending money on hardware soon enough.

“PC is leading the VR—“

Let me stop you right there.
If you add together the total number of Oculus Rifts and HTC Vives sold to this day, and threw in another 100,000 just for the sake of it, that number would still be under the number of PSVR headsets sold.
Why could this possibly be? Well, for a simple reason: affordability. The systems needed to run the PC headsets costs $800+, and the headsets are $500 - $600, when discounted. PSVR on the other hand costs $450 for the full bundle (headset, camera, and move controllers, with a demo disc thrown in), and can be played on either a $250 - $300 console, or a $400 console, the latter recommended. Even if you want to say that the Vive and Rift are more refined, a full PSVR set, system and all, could cost just over $100 more than a Vive headset alone.
If anything, PC isn’t leading the VR gaming market, the PS4 is. It’s the system bringing VR to the most consumers, showing them what the future of gaming could look like. Not to mention that as the PlayStation line grows more powerful (4.2 TFLOP PS4 Pro, 10 TFLOP “PS5…”), it won’t be long until the PlayStation line can use the same VR games as PC.
Either way, this shows that there is a console equivalent to the PC VR options. Sure, there are some games you'd only be able to play on PC, but there are also some games you'd only be able to play on PSVR.
…Though to be fair, if we’re talking about VR in general, these headsets don’t even hold a candle to, surprisingly, Gear VR.

“If it wasn’t for consoles holding devs back, then they would be able to make higher quality games.”

This one is based on the idea that because of how “low spec” consoles are, that when a developer has to take them in mind, then they can’t design the game to be nearly as good as it would be otherwise. I mean, have you ever seen the minimum specs for games on Steam?
GTA V
  • CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad CPU Q6600 @ 2.40GHz (4 CPUs) / AMD Phenom 9850 Quad-Core Processor (4 CPUs) @ 2.5GHz
  • Memory: 4 GB RAM
  • GPU: NVIDIA 9800 GT 1GB / AMD HD 4870 1GB (DX 10, 10.1, 11)
Just Cause 3
  • CPU: Intel Core i5-2500k, 3.3GHz / AMD Phenom II X6 1075T 3GHz
  • Memory: 8 GB RAM
  • GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (2GB) / AMD Radeon HD 7870 (2GB)
Fallout 4
  • CPU: Intel Core i5-2300 2.8 GHz/AMD Phenom II X4 945 3.0 GHz or equivalent
  • Memory: 8 GB RAM
  • GPU: NVIDIA GTX 550 Ti 2GB/AMD Radeon HD 7870 2GB or equivalent
Overwatch
  • CPU: Intel Core i3 or AMD Phenom™ X3 8650
  • Memory: 4 GB RAM
  • GPU: NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 460, ATI Radeon™ HD 4850, or Intel® HD Graphics 4400
Witcher 3
  • Processor: Intel CPU Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz / AMD CPU Phenom II X4 940
  • Memory: 6 GB RAM
  • Graphics: Nvidia GPU GeForce GTX 660 / AMD GPU Radeon HD 7870
Actually, bump up all the memory requirements to 8 GBs, and those are some decent specs, relatively speaking. And keep in mind these are the minimum specs to even open the games. It’s almost as if the devs didn’t worry about console specs when making a PC version of the game, because this version of the game isn’t on console. Or maybe even that the consoles aren’t holding the games back that much because they’re not that weak. Just a hypothesis.
But I mean, the devs are still ooobviously having to take weak consoles into mind right? They could make their games sooo much more powerful if they were PC only, right? Right?
No. Not even close.
iRacing
  • CPU: Intel Core i3, i5, i7 or better or AMD Bulldozer or better
  • Memory: 8 GB RAM
  • GPU: NVidia GeForce 2xx series or better, 1GB+ dedicated video memory / AMD 5xxx series or better, 1GB+ dedicated video memory
Playerunknown’s Battlegrounds
  • CPU: Intel Core i3-4340 / AMD FX-6300
  • Memory: 6 GB RAM
  • GPU: nVidia GeForce GTX 660 2GB / AMD Radeon HD 7850 2GB
These are PC only games. That’s right, no consoles to hold them back, they don’t have to worry about whether an Xbox One could handle it. Yet, they don’t require anything more than the Multiplatform games.
Subnautica
  • CPU: Intel Haswell 2 cores / 4 threads @ 2.5Ghz or equivalent
  • Memory: 4GB
  • GPU: Intel HD 4600 or equivalent - This includes most GPUs scoring greater than 950pts in the 3DMark Fire Strike benchmark
Rust
  • CPU: 2 ghz
  • Memory: 8 GB RAM
  • DirectX: Version 11 (they don’t even list a GPU)
So what’s the deal? Theoretically, if developers don’t have to worry about console specs, then why aren’t they going all-out and making games that no console could even dream of supporting?
Low-end PCs.
What, did you think people only game on Steam if they spent at least $500 on gaming hardware? Not all PC gamers have gaming-PC specs, and if devs close their games out to players who don’t have the strongest of PCs, then they’d be losing out on a pretty sizable chunk of their potential buyers.
Saying “devs having to deal with consoles is holding gaming back” is like saying “racing teams having to deal with Ford is holding GT racing back.” A: racing teams don’t have to deal with Ford if they don’t want to, which is probably why many of them don’t, and B: even though Ford doesn’t make the fastest cars overall, they still manage to make cars that are awesome on their own, they don’t even need to be compared to anything else to know that they make good cars.
I want to go back to that previous point though, developers having to deal with low-end PCs, because it’s integral to the next point:

“PCs are more powerful, gaming on PC provides a better experience.”

This one isn’t so much of a misconception as it is… misleading.
Did you know that according to the Steam Hardware & Software Survey (July 2017) , the percentage of Steam gamers who use a GPU that's less powerful than that of a PS4 Slim’s GPU is well over 50%? Things get dismal when compared to the PS4 Pro (Or Xbox One X). On top of that, the percentage of PC gamers who own a Nvidia 10 series card is about 20% (about 15% for the 1060, 1080 and 1070 owners).
Now to be fair, the large majority of gamers have CPUs with considerably high clock speeds, which is the main factor in CPU gaming performance. But, the number of Steam gamers with as much RAM or more than a PS4 or Xbox One is less than 50%, which can really bottleneck what those CPUs can handle.
These numbers are hardly better than they were in 2013, all things considered. Sure, a PS3/360 weeps in the face of even a $400 PC, but in this day in age, consoles have definitely caught up.
Sure, we could mention the fact that even 1% of Steam accounts represents over 1 million accounts, but that doesn’t really matter compared to the 10s of millions of 8th gen consoles sold; looking at it that way, sure the number of Nvidia 10 series owners is over 20 million, but that ignores the fact that there are over 5 times more 8th gen consoles sold than that.
Basically, even though PCs run on a spectrum, saying they're more powerful “on average” is actually wrong. Sure, they have the potential for being more powerful, but most of the time, people aren’t willing to pay the premium to reach those extra bits of performance.
Now why is this important? What matters are the people who spent the premium cost for premium parts, right? Because of the previous point: PCs don’t have some ubiquitous quality over the consoles, developers will always have to keep low-end PCs in mind, because not even half of all PC players can afford the good stuff, and you have to look at the top quarter of Steam players before you get to PS4-Pro-level specs. If every Steam player were to get a PS4 Pro, it would be an upgrade for over 60% of them, and 70% of them would be getting an upgrade with the Xbox One X.
Sure, you could still make the argument that when you pay more for PC parts, you get a better experience than you could with a console. We can argue all day about budget PCs, but a console can’t match up to a $1,000 PC build. It’s the same as paying more for car parts, in the end you get a better car. However, there is a certain problem with that…

“You pay a little more for a PC, you get much more quality.”

The idea here is that the more you pay for PC parts, the performance increases at a faster rate than the price does. Problem: that’s not how technology works. Paying twice as much doesn’t get you twice the quality the majority of the time.
For example, let’s look at graphics cards, specifically the GeForce 10 series cards, starting with the GTX 1050.
  • 1.8 TFLOP
  • 1.35 GHz base clock
  • 2 GB VRAM
  • $110
This is our reference, our basis of comparison. Any percentages will be based on the 1050’s specs.
Now let’s look at the GTX 1050 Ti, the 1050’s older brother.
  • 2.1 TFLOP
  • 1.29 GHz base clock
  • 4 GB VRAM
  • $140 retail
This is pretty good. You only increase the price by about 27%, and you get an 11% increase in floating point speed and a 100% increase (double) in VRAM. Sure you get a slightly lower base clock, but the rest definitely makes up for it. In fact, according to GPU boss, the Ti managed 66 fps, or a 22% increase in frame rate for Battlefield 4, and a 54% increase in mHash/second in bitcoin mining. The cost increase is worth it, for the most part.
But let’s get to the real meat of it; what happens when we double our budget? Surely we should see a massive increase performance, I bet some of you are willing to bet that twice the cost means more than twice the performance.
The closest price comparison for double the cost is the GTX 1060 (3 GB), so let’s get a look at that.
  • 3.0 TFLOP
  • 1.5 GHz base clock
  • 3 GB VRAM
  • $200 retail
Well… not substantial, I’d say. About a 50% increase in floating point speed, an 11% increase in base clock speed, and a 1GB decrease in VRAM. For [almost] doubling the price, you don’t get much.
Well surely raw specs don’t tell the full story, right? Well, let’s look at some real wold comparisons. Once again, according to GPU Boss, there’s a 138% increase in hashes/second for bitcoin mining, and at 99 fps, an 83% frame rate increase in Battlefield 4. Well, then, raw specs does not tell the whole story!
Here’s another one, the 1060’s big brother… or, well, slightly-more-developed twin.
  • 3.9 TFLOP
  • 1.5 GHz base clock
  • 6 GB VRAM
  • $250 retail
Seems reasonable, another $50 for a decent jump in power and double the memory! But, as we’ve learned, we shouldn’t look at the specs for the full story.
I did do a GPU Boss comparison, but for the BF4 frame rate, I had to look at Tom’s Hardware (sorry miners, GPU boss didn’t cover the mHash/sec spec either). What’s the verdict? Well, pretty good, I’d say. With 97 FPS, a 79% increase over the 1050— wait. 97? That seems too low… I mean, the 3GB version got 99.
Well, let’s see what Tech Power Up has to say...
94.3 fps. 74% increase. Huh.
Alright alright, maybe that was just a dud. We can gloss over that I guess. Ok, one more, but let’s go for the big fish: the GTX 1080.
  • 9.0 TFLOP
  • 1.6 GHz base clock
  • 8 GB VRAM
  • $500 retail
That jump in floating point speed definitely has to be something, and 4 times the VRAM? Sure it’s 5 times the price, but as we saw, raw power doesn’t always tell the full story. GPU Boss returns to give us the run down, how do these cards compare in the real world?
Well… a 222% (over three-fold) increase in mHash speed, and a 218% increase in FPS for Battlefield 4. That’s right, for 5 times the cost, you get 3 times the performance. Truly, the raw specs don’t tell the full story.
You increase the cost by 27%, you increase frame rate in our example game by 22%. You increase the cost by 83%, you increase the frame rate by 83%. Sounds good, but if you increase the cost by 129%, and you get a 79% (-50% cost/power increase) increase in frame rate. You increase it by 358%, and you increase the frame rate by 218% (-140% cost/power increase). That’s not paying “more for much more power,” that’s a steep drop-off after the third cheapest option.
In fact, did you know that you have to get to the 1060 (6GB) before you could compare the GTX line to a PS4 Pro? Not to mention that at $250, the price of a 1060 (6GB) you could get an entire PS4 Slim bundle, or that you have to get to the 1070 before you beat the Xbox One X.
On another note, let’s look at a PS4 Slim…
  • 1.84 TFLOP
  • 800 MHz base clock
  • 8 GB VRAM
  • $300 retail
…Versus a PS4 Pro.
  • 4.2 TFLOP
  • 911 MHz base clock
  • 8 GB VRAM
  • $400 retail
128% increase in floating point speed, 13% increase in clock speed, for a 25% difference in cost. Unfortunately there is no Battlefield 4 comparison to make, but in BF1, the frame rate is doubled (30 fps to 60) and the textures are taken to 11. For what that looks like, I’ll leave it up to this bloke. Not to even mention that you can even get the texture buffs in 4K. Just like how you get a decent increase in performance based on price for the lower-cost GPUs, the same applies here.
It’s even worse when you look at the CPU for a gaming PC. The more money you spend, again, the less of a benefit you get per dollar. Hardware Unboxed covers this in a video comparing different levels of Intel CPUs. One thing to note is that the highest i7 option (6700K) in this video was almost always within 10 FPS (though for a few games, 15 FPS) of a certain CPU in that list for just about all of the games.
…That CPU was the lowest i3 (6100) option. The lowest i3 was $117 and the highest i7 was $339, a 189% price difference for what was, on average, a 30% or less difference in frame rate. Even the lowest Pentium option (G4400, $63) was often able to keep up with the i7.
The CPU and GPU are usually the most expensive and power-consuming parts of a build, which is why I focused on them (other than the fact that they’re the two most important parts of a gaming PC, outside of RAM). With both, this “pay more to get much more performance” idea is pretty much the inverse of the truth.

“The console giants are bad for game developers, Steam doesn't treat developers as bad as Microsoft or especially Sony.”

Now one thing you might’ve heard is that the PS3 was incredibly difficult for developers to make games for, which for some, fueled the idea that console hardware is difficult too develop on compared to PC… but this ignores a very basic idea that we’ve already touched on: if the devs don’t want to make the game compatible with a system, they don’t have to. In fact, this is why Left 4 Dead and other Valve games aren’t on PS3, because they didn’t want to work with it’s hardware, calling it “too complex.” This didn’t stop the game from selling well over 10 million units worldwide. If anything, this was a problem for the PS3, not the dev team.
This also ignores that games like LittleBigPlanet, Grand Theft Auto IV, and Metal Gear Solid 4 all came out in the same year as Left 4 Dead (2008) on PS3. Apparently, plenty of other dev teams didn’t have much of a problem with the PS3’s hardware, or at the very least, they got used to it soon enough.
On top of that, when developing the 8th gen consoles, both Sony and Microsoft sought to use CPUs that were easier for developers, which included making decisions that considered apps for the consoles’ usage for more than gaming. On top of that, using their single-chip proprietary CPUs is cheaper and more energy efficient than buying pre-made CPUs and boards, which is far better of a reason for using them than some conspiracy about Sony and MS trying to make devs' lives harder.
Now, console exclusives are apparently a point of contention: it’s often said that exclusive can cause developers to go bankrupt. However, exclusivity doesn’t have to be a bad thing for the developer. For example, when Media Molecule had to pitch their game to a publisher (Sony, coincidentally), they didn’t end up being tied into something detrimental to them.
Their initial funding lasted for 6 months. From then, Sony offered additional funding, in exchange for Console Exclusivity. This may sound concerning to some, but the game ended up going on to sell almost 6 million units worldwide and launched Media Molecule into the gaming limelight. Sony later bought the development studio, but 1: this was in 2010, two years after LittleBigPlanet’s release, and 2: Media Molecule seem pretty happy about it to this day. If anything, signing up with Sony was one of the best things they could’ve done, in their opinion.
Does this sound like a company that has it out for developers? There are plenty of examples that people will use to put Valve in a good light, but even Sony is comparatively good to developers.

“There are more PC gamers.”

The total number of active PC gamers on Steam has surpassed 120 million, which is impressive, especially considering that this number is double that of 2013’s figure (65 million). But the number of monthly active users on Xbox Live and PSN? About 120 million (1, 2) total. EDIT: You could argue that this isn't an apples-to-apples comparison, sure, so if you want to, say, compare the monthly number of Steam users to console? Steam has about half of what consoles do, at 67 million.
Now, back to the 65 million total user figure for Steam, the best I could find for reference for PlayStation's number was an article giving the number of registered PSN accounts in 2013, 150 million. In a similar 4-year period (2009 - 2013), the number of registered PSN accounts didn’t double, it sextupled, or increased by 6 fold. Considering how the PS4 is already at 2/3 of the number of sales the PS3 had, even though it’s currently 3 years younger than its predecessor, I’m sure this trend is at least generally consistent.
For example, let’s look at DOOM 2016, an awesome faced-paced shooting title with graphics galore… Of course, on a single platform, it sold best on PC/Steam. 2.36 million Steam sales, 2.05 million PS4 sales, 1.01 million Xbox One sales.
But keep in mind… when you add the consoles sales together, you get over 3 million sales on the 8th gen systems. Meaning: this game was best sold on console. In fact, the Steam sales have only recently surpassed the PS4 sales. By the way VG charts only shows sales for physical copies of the games, so the number of PS4 and Xbox sales, when digital sales are included, are even higher than 3 million.
This isn’t uncommon, by the way.
Even with the games were the PC sales are higher than either of the consoles, there generally are more console sales total. But, to be fair, this isn’t anything new. The number of PC gamers hasn’t dominated the market, the percentages have always been about this much. PC can end up being the largest single platform for games, but consoles usually sell more copies total.
EDIT: There were other examples but... Reddit has a 40,000-character limit.

"Modding is only on PC."

Xbox One is already working on it, and Bethesda is helping with that.
PS4 isn't far behind either. You could argue that these are what would be the beta stages of modding, but that just means modding on consoles will only grow.

What’s the Point?

This isn’t to say that there’s anything wrong with PC gaming, and this isn’t to exalt consoles. I’m not here to be the hipster defending the little guy, nor to be the one to try to put down someone/thing out of spite. This is about showing that PCs and consoles are overall pretty similar because there isn’t much dividing them, and that there isn’t anything wrong with being a console gamer. There isn’t some chasm separating consoles and PCs, at the end of the day they’re both computers that are (generally) designed for gaming. This about unity as gamers, to try to show that there shouldn’t be a massive divide just because of the computer system you game on. I want gamers to be in an environment where specs don't separate us; whether you got a $250 PS4 Slim or just built a $2,500 gaming PC, we’re here to game and should be able to have healthy interactions regardless of your platform.
I’m well aware that this isn’t going to fix… much, but this needs to be said: there isn’t a huge divide between the PC and consoles, they’re far more similar than people think. There are upsides and downsides that one has that the other doesn’t on both sides. There’s so much more I could touch on, like how you could use SSDs or 3.5 inch hard drives with both, or that even though PC part prices go down over time, so do consoles, but I just wanted to touch on the main points people try to use to needlessly separate the two kinds of systems (looking at you PCMR) and correct them, to get the point across.
I thank anyone who takes the time to read all of this, and especially anyone who doesn’t take what I say out of context. I also want to note that, again, this isn’tanti-PC gamer.” If it were up to me, everyone would be a hybrid gamer.
Cheers.
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